Lake Home Sun Room Addition - Interior finish

In my previous two posts on this project, I talked about decision and planning, as well as demo, framing, and finishing the outside.  Now, I'll discuss finishing the interior of the structure.

After some discussion, we decided to drywall all four walls.  Originally, we had planned on leaving the siding on the side of the house, but drywall would give us a more finished, nicer look.  It also made it easier to run power and install light fixtures, without running wires in surface conduit.  The ceiling would be soffit material, and we'd install some recessed lighting fixtures, as well as a couple of ceiling fans and wall sconces.  As I mentioned before, we'd also install a small through-the-wall heat pump.  The floor would be ceramic tile, to minimize maintenance.

The first step was to run the wiring.  Fortunately, I had an easy path to get power from the breaker box to the porch.  I pulled wire for one 15 amp, 120 volt circuit for lights and outlets, and one 20 amp, 240 volt circuit for the heat pump.  I put a lot of outlets in the porch - one every 4' or so on the outside wall - I figured it was easier to do that now than to have to add one later in the process.  When I finished the outside, I added a couple of boxes for outside outlets.  I wired those up, hooking them into the same circuit as the inside outlets.  For safety purposes, I ran all the outlets through a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupting  (GFCI) outlet.  I was able to wire it so that one GFCI would protect all the outlets on the circuit - the instructions in the package explains how to do it.  At this time, I installed the "can" lights, and the junction boxes that would hold the ceiling fans.  I also ran wire for a couple of motion-detector lights for the exterior - a valuable security feature.

After running all the wiring, it was time to install insulation, then drywall.  Fortunately, Carter came down to help with this part of the project, making it much easier than it would be alone.  We elected to use fiberglass batt insulation, with a heavy poly film for a vapor barrier.  Since we had 2 X 6 walls, we used 6" insulation.

 

First, we added fiberglass batt insulation, then stapled on the vapor barrier.

The ceiling was a bit different.  Since the ceiling was the floor of the 2nd story deck, covered with a waterproof coating, we didn't want to add the vapor barrier - I was worried about trapping moisture in between two waterproof surfaces.  In addition, the roof had a slight slope to it, to aid in shedding water.  Since we wanted a roof level with the rest of the room, we had to add furring strips to level it out. 

Now, we were ready for drywall!

When planning a drywall project, one of the most important things to keep in mind is to minimize the number of seams, to make finishing as easy as possible.  When you buy your drywall, buy a couple of extra pieces, just in case.  Since drywall itself is relatively cheap, you would never cut multiple pieces where one continuous piece will work.  In this case, we had a long, narrow, rectangular room with a lot of windows and doors, so we'd have enough finishing to do regardless of how well planned it was.  We could use 4' X 12' sheets for much of it, which helped.

We had decided to use 1/2" thick drywall - the standard thickness for new construction - for the new.  To cover the existing siding on the inside wall, we went with thinner 3/8" material - more than adequate for the job, since it was just covering up a solid surface.

Since we had so many windows, I decided we'd just drywall around them, with no added wooden trim.  I thought, since the wall was essentially all window, that wooden trim would be a distraction.  I figured, if we didn't like it, I could always add it later.  This turned out to be a good decision - although it added a lot of labor, it saved quite a bit in material cost, and we like the look a lot.

In the old days (the 1970's), we used nails to secure drywall.  I think they still sell drywall nails, but I don't know who would ever use them.  Today, drywall is secured with screws - typically about an inch and a quarter long, that are easily set with any driver drill.  They're easier to work with, and provide much improved holding power, compared with nails.  When I hang drywall, I try to use only as many screws as necessary to hold the drywall firmly in place.  It's also important to drive the screws to just below the surface, while making sure you don't tear the paper - there should be a little dimple at each screw, that can easily be filled with joint compound when you're finishing.

Hanging drywall goes fairly quickly, and Carter and I got it up without too much trouble.  Probably the hardest part of this was carrying the sheets down the hill!  I also caught a bug that weekend, so I wasn't as much help as I might have been otherwise (of course, I'm not much help normally anyway, so maybe that wasn't too big a deal, after all).  In any case, we had the drywall in place by the end of the weekend.

The drywall is up.  Notice the furring strips on the ceiling, which are shimmed down to make the ceiling level.

Notice the drywall around the window.  There is, however, a wooden jamb extension around the patio door.

Very few seams on this wall - we hung the drywall horizontally, to reduce finishing.  Note the seam about halfway up the support post beam

Ready for Mud!

Carter wisely elected not to come for the drywall  finishing process.  Drywall finishing isn't impossible for an amateur to do well - you just have to have a lot of patience.  It's also important to keep in mind that virtually every wall will have a few flaws in it, if you look hard enough.  If the joint looks bad before you paint, it will look worse after, so take the time to do it right.

Pros may be able to get great looking walls with two coats of mud, but I've always needed three.  The key is to use fresh mud, and broad strokes.  If you do it right, you shouldn't need to sand between coats.  If you're like me, you'll need to do some sanding and touching up after your third coat.  Here's the basic process:

• The long edges of drywall sheets are tapered, so those are the easiest joints to cover.  Have two new, uncut edges join whenever possible.
• I've always used paper tape - it's cheap and pretty easy to work with.  They make fiberglass self-stick tape, but it's quite a bit more expensive, and I've heard it is more susceptible to cracking.  If you've used it and like it, that's fine.
• Your "mud" - drywall compound - should be fairly thin.  If it seems thick, thin it with water.
• Take a wide putty knife or drywall knife - about 4" - and put down a bed of mud slightly wider than the tape.  It doesn't have to be too thick, but should be thick enough for you to embed the tape into it - maybe about 1/8" thick or so. 
• Cut a length of tape the right length for your joint, and push it into the mud at the beginning of your joint to hold it in place. With the 4" knife at a slight angle - and a small amount of mud on the blade - run down the joint, pushing the tape into the mud.  You should push out excess mud from around the tape, and end up with the tape in the mud, with a very slight amount on top.  Be careful to make sure that there is mud UNDER the tape through the whole joint - if there's a void, it will pop up and separate in the future.  You'll end up with a bunch of excess mud on you knife - put it back in the container as you go.
• Let the first coat dry completely, then knock off any chunks with the drywall knife, so it's fairly smooth (it isn't supposed to be perfect at this point, so don't be too obsessive about it).  If there's a spot that has a big lump, you may have to sand that down now.
• The second coat is put on with a wider knife - probably about 8".  Put a little mud on the knife, and draw it over the first.  The mud will be spread wider this time - you're still getting a thin coat.  Resist the temptation to glob on a whole bunch of mud - more is not better, in this case!
• Let it dry, and again knock off any chunks.  It will probably look pretty good now, but you're not done - if you paint after two coats, it will look horrible, so don't even think about it!
• The third coat goes on with the 12" knife - very thin and smooth.  After this coat, it should look pretty good - you'll have a few lines and defects, but they should be pretty minor.  You'll want to touch up any big boo boos, but minor issues will be taken care of with sanding.
• You should install metal or plastic corner beads on any outside corners - these give you a nice straight corner, and provide protection against damage.  After installing the beads, finish these with three coats, like above.
• Inside corners are tougher, but not impossible.  Look closely at your tape, and you'll see it's creased in the middle.  If you bend it at the crease, you can set it in the corner, and tape just like a flat joint.  It is easiest to use a special knife designed for inside corners to set the tape in the mud - subsequent coats are done with a flat knife - let one side dry before doing the other.
• Screw hole are filled with mud - a couple of coats are usually sufficient there.

After you're done with the mud, it's time to sand.  You can use a sponge, designed for sanding drywall, or a block of wood with sandpaper attached.  In any case, go easy!  If you use coarse paper, or sand too aggressively, you'll have to go back to applying mud again.  Be especially careful not to rough up the paper - it will show after paining.  Don't use a power sander - it's way too easy to take off too much material.  Often, a damp sponge or rag will work well for sanding.

Next up - paint!


After sanding, I applied a primer coat, then painted.  We elected to use 3 colors - the two ends were one color, and each long side was a different one.  I hate to paint, but I worked through it, and soon had it all painted.

Now I just needed to tile the floor, install the ceiling, and complete the trim and touch up.

 Carter came down for the next part - installing tile.  We borrowed my neighbor's tile saw, which helped a bunch.  Unfortunately, we picked the coldest weekend in memory to tackle this job - a major headache, since we set the saw up outside.  Since the process involves having your hands sprayed with water while you're cutting, it made cutting the tile very unpleasant.  Even with this issue, it was better to cut the tile outside, and avoid the mess inside.

Since Carter was the experienced tile setter, she laid all the tile, while I kept busy mixing thinset and cutting tiles for the edges.  We elected to go with a staggered pattern - not really any harder to set.

We started at the far end, and worked our way down.  There were doors at both ends, so we were in no danger of tiling ourselves into a corner!  Note the spacers still in place between the most recent tiles.

We liked the staggered pattern.

Once the tile was in place, it was time for grout. Grout is the stuff that goes between the tile - it's available in a bunch of different colors.  We chose a sandstone-like color for the grout.  Grout is applied with a special grout float - kind of a thin sponge bonded to a board.  You just dump some grout on the tile, and work it back and forth, forcing it into the space between the tiles.

After adding the grout, you scrub the tile clean with a sponge, and you're done.  Of course, that's a short sentence about a miserable job - the whole grout/cleaning/sealing is about the most tedious process of the whole project.

With the floor done, all that's left it the ceiling and trim.

In any case, we now had a great looking floor.  We're almost done - Next, I'll install the ceiling.

For the ceiling, I decided to use vinyl soffit material.  I had intended to use aluminum, but when I looked at it at the lumber yard, I couldn't find a single piece that wasn't dented or deformed.  I figured, if they couldn't keep it on the rack without damage, I'd never be able to get it home and installed.

The vinyl worked pretty well - I used some flat head screws, and made sure to leave them a little loose, to allow for expansion and contraction of the vinyl.  The only hard part was cutting the holes for the recessed lights, and even that was pretty easy.  The ceiling went up quickly, and looked nice when it was done.

The ceiling looked nice, when finished. 

For trim, I decided on painted pine - it's relatively inexpensive, and easy to work with.   At Home Depot, I discovered I could save a bunch of money by buying a "contractor pack" of base trim, containing at least twice as much as I needed.  The price per piece was so much less, it was a no-brainer.  Unfortunately, not having a use for the excess, I ended up throwing it away.

I also bought a power miter saw for the trim work, and quickly figured out I should have bought it at the beginning of the project - it would have been perfect for cutting all the framing.

In any case, I was able to finish the trim in relatively short order.  I painted it before installation, then touched up to cover the nail holes.  As soon as it was done, we ordered furniture.  The project was complete!

We have most of our meals at the table - we have a perfect view of the lake!

We leave the patio doors into the house open while we're there.

Kodak like it!

Our total for the project was a shade under $10,000 - much less than any of the sun room companies would have charged to do the work.  In addition, I think the results were at least as nice (actually, I like our room better.

This room isn't perfect - it's long and narrow, so it's difficult to accommodate a large group.  As a practical matter, we didn't have an option there - adding width would have increased the cost and complexity of the project exponentially.

The heat pump works well, although we don't need the air conditioning too often.  We need the heat in the winter, although the afternoon sun heats the room up quite well.  Although I did much of it myself, Carter was a huge help - several tasks would have been nearly impossible without help.  It's also nice to have someone to bounce ideas off, especially since we didn't have a set-in-stone design.

Movie Review - "People Will Talk"

I'm a big Cary Grant fan - I love all his old movies, many of which are classics - check out Father Goose or Bringing Up Baby if you want a lighthearted romantic comedy.  A couple of my other favorites are Operation Petticoat (a WWII comedy) and Arsenic and Old Lace.  Of course, my tastes run to screwball comedies.  If you like something with a little suspense, you might like North by Northwest or Notorious - they're both good, and stand up when compared to more modern movies.

I was browsing the movies on Netflix, looking for something to kill a couple of hours, when I noticed a Cary Grant movie that was unknown to me:  People Will Talk.  The movie was made in 1951, but it has the look and feel of a 40's film.  It's billed as a comedy, but it has some touching moments.

Grant plays Dr. Noah Praetorius, an doctor/teacher who is unconventional and at odds with Professor Elwell, a nasty little man who is determined to cause trouble.  Elwell is played by Hume Cronyn, a character actor that's been in a bunch of shows - you might recognize him from Cocoon.

While this is not Grant's best work, it's an interesting movie for a couple of reasons.  Most unusual for a romantic comedy of its era, the love interest (Deborah Higgins, played with some depth by Jeanne Crain) is an unmarried, pregnant woman.  The father of her child, who she "didn't know well enough", didn't know about the pregnancy, and was killed in the service.  I was shocked that this subject was handled reasonably, and without moralizing or contorting the plot to remove any responsibility for her actions.  I've never seen Crain in anything else (or if I did, I didn't recognize her), but she did a nice job here.  I loved the scene where she realizes Dr. Praetorious is in love with her - you can see her transformed in that instant from a scared girl to a woman who knows she's got him right where she wants him.  It was a small, but nice, moment in the film.

Although the romance is a big part of the story, there's no real conflict there.  From the moment you see them, you know how that part is going to turn out - and there's no "boy loses girl" part of the story.  The conflict in the plot is due to the actions of Professor Elwell, and involves Dr. Praetorius' companion, Mr. Shunderson (Finlay Currie).   There's something a little odd about Shunderson, and we can't quite figure it out until the climax.  I won't spoil it here, other than to say it's an odd and touching story.  Shunderson puts Elwell in his place convincingly at the end - I would have given him a standing ovation, except for the fact I was alone in my basement at the time (and, of course, being dead, Currie wouldn't have appreciated it, anyway).

If you've got a little time, and you want to watch an unusual, classic movie, give this one a try.  It's not rolling-on-the-floor funny, but you'll get a couple of chuckles.  You may also think a bit about human relationships, and just what it is that makes a person worthwhile.

Lake House Porch Addition, Step Two - Demo, Framing, and Enclosing the Room

In a previous post, I discussed the planning and decision-making process for our lake home addition.  Having made the decision, I was now ready to begin the actual work.  Plan in hand, I headed to the lake for an extended weekend of solitary work.

The old framework was in good shape, but didn't have the look we wanted for the addition.  The old
 6 x 6 support beams would stay in place.

The old porch had a 2 X 4 framework that held the screens in place.  While this framework was in good condition, it was inadequate for my needs.  Specifically, it had a few things that made it necessary to do a complete tear-out:

• Since the support beams were 6 X 6's, the smaller framework would need to be shimmed out to match the beams - a very labor-intensive process.
• The rough openings weren't exactly what I needed for the windows and doors.
• The openings weren't solid enough to provide a good mounting platform for the windows and doors.

Armed with a crowbar, hammer, and driver drill, I began tearing things down.  We weren't going to reuse anything, including the old doors, so I pulled those out and hauled them to the top of the hill. Initially, I was going to save the old lumber, but I soon decided it was more work than it was worth to remove all the nail, so I ended up just ripping it apart and piling it up, nails and all.  After the framework was gone, I pulled out some of the old electrical and fixtures, leaving some lights for the moment.  After about a half day, I was ready to start building!

A couple of things have changed since I last did any major construction project.  I had never used a pneumatic nail gun - I don't even know if they existed way back in the stone ages when I helped my father build or remodel.  Fortunately, Carter owns several nail guns, and she was kind enough to loan them to me for the duration of the project.  I soon discovered that these things are real labor savers!  You also have the ability to quickly drive nails at odd angles.  The downside?  You have to use some restraint, or you'll end up with more nails than board.

I ended up cutting all the framing lumber with a circular saw - hand measuring each board, marking it with a square, and following the line with the saw.  I'm pretty good with a circular saw, but, if I had it to do over again, I'd have bought a power miter saw, and used it to cut the 2 X 6 framing.  Ironically, I ended up buying a big saw for the trim work, not realizing it would have been perfect for the framing.  In any case, I cut all the framing with the circular saw, with no real problems.

Since I wanted the maximum glass area, my windows were custom sized.  The rough opening for each window was slightly larger than the frame size, to leave you enough room to level the windows.  I tried to get each opening as square, plumb, and level as possible to reduce issues when installing the windows.

Rough openings are an inch or so larger than the window frames

I also framed out an opening for the walk-in door and through-wall heat pump in the far end.

You can see the detail, including the "cripple" studs around the openings.  Since the support beams provide adequate strength, I didn't have to worry about structural strength of the headers.

The other end is framed for the sliding patio door.

The view from the outside - Still not much difference!

After framing, the next step was to add the sheathing.  Fortunately, Carter was able to come down to help with sheathing and window and door installation.  Sheathing adds rigidity to the structure, gives it lateral stability, and provides a smooth, solid surface.  Depending on the application, sheathing can be fiber board, foam board, or (my choice) OSB.  OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is a plywood-like material - we used to call it "chip board" - less expensive than plywood, providing a more solid, secure sheathing than foam.  Since I was planning on vinyl siding, I wanted to have a "real wall" - something that would withstand at least a little force before breaking down.  Adding foam board to the outside would provide superior insulation, but I elected not to use it for this project - the wall was almost completely glass anyway, so I didn't think it would be worth messing with.  I would, however, insulate the wall cavities, as well as the ceiling.

Protection from water intrusion is of primary importance in any home.  Years ago, I can remember using tar paper or "builders paper" over the sheathing to protect against water.  Now, you use House wrap.  I used Tyvek brand - a leading product in the industry.  Tyvek stops wind and water from coming in, while still allowing water vapor to pass through from inside the house.   We installed carefully, taping the seams with the special tape made for the job.  We took special care around the window openings, wrapping the Tyvek around the opening, then adding self-stick flashing to (hopefully) eliminate leaks.

Starting to look like a wall!

House wrap added, almost ready for windows.

The gray  tape under the window is flashing - the bottom piece is installed under the window, then more is added up the sides and on top, so water from the top will end up outside, rather than in the wall.

Once the wrap was on, we were ready for window installation.  We were using "new construction" windows, meaning they came with a mounting flange attached.  This simplifies installation - all you have to do is caulk, put them in the opening, shim until they're square, and nail them in.  Of course, that sounds a little easier than it is! 

Our windows were large and heavy, and they weren't at ground level from the outside, so we decided to install them from the inside.  This required us to remove the screen and movable glass pane, and put them through the opening from the inside.  Even nailing the fins - ordinarily the easy part - was more difficult due to the awkward reach required.

First window installed!

I had to lean out the window to fasten the flanges.

Believe it or not, I did the whole project without falling!

Almost done!

All the windows are in.

Once the windows were done, we had to install the doors.  The walk in door was easy - it was pre-hung - just set it in the opening, make sure it is plumb and square, shim, and you're done.  The sliding door wasn't hard, but it was really heavy.  Carter and I had our hands full just moving it into position! Once into position, is was a straight-forward process to level it and finish the job. 

The walk-in door at the far end, seen from the outside.  The small framed opening below the window is for the heat pump.



The patio door, installed.  Note the flashing around the door.

We now had  a completely enclosed room - if the weather turned cold, I could at least work on the inside.  The next step was to add the vinyl siding, so the outside would be completely finished and ready for winter.

I'd never installed vinyl siding before.  It's not very hard, but there are a couple of things you need to be careful of.  Since vinyl expands and contracts with temperature changes, it shouldn't be fastened too tight - it must be free to move slightly.  For this reason, fastener holes are slotted.  It's also important to cut pieces slightly smaller than the opening, to allow for expansion. 

The other thing you need to keep in mind is that the siding isn't water tight, so your fasteners need to be able to withstand exposure to the elements without rusting.  Standard galvanized screws or nails won't do - when they rust, you may get stains running down the siding.  Although I would have preferred to use screws, I had trouble finding stainless steel or other rust-free screws with the necessary broad, flat head.  I ended up using aluminum roofing nails for the siding.  Aluminum nails are very difficult to use - any slight mishit causes the soft aluminum to bend. 

To get started, you first install all the trim pieces - corners and "J Channel" around windows.  This trim covers the cut ends, giving you a nice, finished appearance.  The siding itself goes pretty quickly - starting at the bottom, you nail it up, overlapping slightly at the seams.  The next piece locks into the lower one, again making sure nothing is too tight.  The top of each side slips into a special piece of trim that holds it in place.

Here you can see how the siding, trim, soffit, and fascia combine to give a finished appearance.

The walk in door, with trim.  Note the sleeve for the heat pump on the lower left side.

Here's the look from the lake - a nice addition to our house.

I also elected to cover the soffits and fascia with vinyl.  It installs similarly to the siding, and provides a nice, clean look with very little maintenance.  All in all, I was happy with the look of the room from the outside - now, I just needed to get to work inside!

Soon, I'll post about the completion of the project.

I'm Back!

Just on the off chance that anyone is out there reading this, I apologize for not posting during the last couple of weeks.  I've had a busy time at work, caught (and recovered from) a cold, and took a long weekend vacation at the lake.

Now, I'm back, so I'll get something posted soon!

The President Supports Marriage Equality!

Barack Obama, in an interview today, came out in favor of allowing same-sex couples to marry.  While his announcement doesn't change anything, it is an important step towards equal rights in this country - the President, the leader of the free world, has taken a principled stand.

I haven't agreed with everything President Obama has done - in particular, I'd have liked to see both of the wars ended in his first term - but I have always admired him as a man.  The contrast between Obama and Romney couldn't be clearer - Romney stands for nothing other than his desire to be elected.

Already, I hear complaints from the Left - "this doesn't go far enough", "he should have done this earlier", "He should push for a federal solution", etc.  I even agree with some of these complaints - but look at the circumstances.  This statement comes in an election year - one in which he faces a very beatable opponent - and, while it may energize the base, does nothing to broaden his support.  I believe most voters who support gay marriage are already in his camp.  Furthermore, this may serve to fire up the socially conservative Republican base - a group that was largely uninspired by Mitt Romney.  This statement may not be perfect, but it's a courageous stand, taken at a difficult time for the president.

I don't see a large political upside for the president in all this, but history will record this as a milestone.  For the first time, a major political party in the United States will officially endorse marriage equality.  If Obama loses the election due to this - I don't think he will - he's earned my respect.  He'll never read this, but I'll say it anyway:

Thank you, Mr. President. 

Fire!

A couple of weeks ago, we got a disturbing call from our neighbors down in Missouri - our dock was on fire!  More specifically, our fishing boat had ignited - it was completely destroyed, and the dock had extensive damage.  This weekend, we're down here, meeting with insurance adjusters, dock repair people, and boat service folks. 

We were amazed when we saw the photos from the fire, but seeing the damage in person is even more striking.  The fishing boat is no longer recognizable as a watercraft - much of the fiberglass cloth is still there, but the resin has burned completely - it's as if the whole thing just melted.  The steering wheel is laying in the middle of the mess, the pump for our live well is a burnt tube in the back, and the anchor is sitting next to it - the only piece of the boat that is still functional at all.

We have no idea how the fire started.  Our insurance company asked if we had any enemies down here, but all of our enemies live in Nebraska, and we're careful not to let them know how to find us down South.  The fire marshal just ruled it an "accidental fire" - he really has no clue what happened.  It appears as though the fire started near the front of the boat, by the trolling motor batteries, but it's hard to tell for sure.  There was about 12 gallons of gas, split between the front and the back end of the boat, so there was plenty of fuel.  I suspect some kind of short, but that's just a guess. 

Most of the damage was to the area right around the boat.

The whole underside of the roof, and most of the structural members are covered in soot.  Some of the roofing material has buckled, and some support members may be structurally suspect, but most of the structure is OK.

Our paddle boat, once stored on this burnt section of dock, was completely consumed.  Only the pedals remain!

Our other boat sustained relatively minor damage.

This is the adjustable-height seat base from the fishing boat.  It was blown out of the boat, and ended up on the dock.

We had just reinforced the transom on the fishing boat - that's probably the only reason the motor isn't laying on the bottom of the lake!

This fan has seen better days!  The dock will need to be completely rewired.

The photos really don't do justice to this - it's a mess!  The good news is, nobody was hurt.  Nothing except our dock and boats was damaged, and we'll still be able to use the house.  With a little time - and a bit of money - we'll be good as new.

Now, the bad news.  We had two boats, only one of which was insured.  Guess which one was completely destroyed?  We'll get a little coverage under our home owner's policy, but it's still not good news to lose the fishing boat.  On top of that, we liked that boat - it was old and ugly, but we had a lot of fun with it, and it worked well for our needs.

We also lost all our fishing gear - the new stuff that was set up just like we wanted it, as well as some old gear I'd had since I was a child.  A few of the lures in my tackle box were ones I got on vacation about 45 years ago.

The other big negative?  We discovered our dock was under-insured.  Our insurance agent told us we had "full replacement coverage".  That's true, but only up to the limit of our coverage - in this case, about 2/3 of the value of the dock.  Since our first estimate for repairs came to about twice our coverage amount, we're now looking for ways to reduce the expense.  Had we been adequately covered, we'd just be able to say, "fix it"!

Even this dark cloud has a silver lining - after this experience, we'll be sure to evaluate our coverage on both houses to make sure we can recover in the event of a disaster.  What else did we learn?  We learned our agent in Lincoln (Ray Thompson State Farm) is on top of things.  Even though we have a different agent for our lake home, I got a call from Shannon in the Lincoln office, asking if everything was OK.  Our Missouri agent, Joe Varnen, is another story - we finally talked to him today, almost two weeks after the fire.  We are also disappointed that he didn't give us better guidance for setting up our policies - Ray's office will go over our coverage every couple of years to make sure we're set up right. 

In the end, we were responsible for our own property.  We could - and should - have known the exact limits of our coverage.  As I said, we'll get everything fixed, and eventually this will be just one of life's experiences.  Right now, it's a giant pain!

Book Review - Brain Twister

I have never been a big fan of audio books, but lately we've been listening to some books while we travel (mainly Janet Evanovich's Stephanie Plum series), and it really does help to make the trip go faster.  These are light hearted adventure/romance novels - more funny than suspenseful.

Recently, I made a trip by myself.  Rather than continue the book Theresa and I had started, I decided to download something different that she might not appreciate.  I had access to download some free audio books from LibriVox, so I figured I could find something I'd like.  Since I like old science fiction, I looked through the selections of that genre, and picked Brain Twister, by Mark Phillips.  Mark Phillips is actually a pseudonym for two writers - Randall Garrett and Laurence M. Janifer, who collaborated on this book.

Many old science fiction books are not great, so I wasn't expecting much when I started to listen to it.  Before I could get into the story, I had to become accustomed to the reader.  Some of the mannerisms I found annoying - especially a couple of the voices used for different characters - but soon got used to it and it didn't bother me at all before long.

The story revolves around an FBI agent, Kenneth Malone, who is assigned the task of finding a telepathic spy.  Since there are no known telepaths in the world, he has to find one - searching from one insane asylum to the next - ending up with a gang ranging from the delusional to the catatonic.  The highest-functioning of the group is a little old lady who just happens to think she's immortal.  Oh, yeah - she also believes she's Queen Elizabeth the First!  Of course, the only way to get her cooperation is to humor her, and she leads the FBI around by the nose.

Malone is a stereotypical tough-guy G-Man - hard drinking, lady killer, and all that - but he's never quite in control of this caper.  I love it when the too-good-to-be-true hero struggles to keep it together.   Brain Twister is a pleasant story, with a nice mystery and a clever twist at the end.  There's not a ton of action, but it's funny, and the characters are interesting and likable, so it holds your attention.  If you're looking for something light and entertaining, it's worth checking out.

Brain Twister received a Hugo nomination in 1960, so there are a few things that don't fit in this world - I don't recall an "atomic rocket to the moon" - but those are incidental to the story.  For the most part, the plot works, and could be set in any decade easily enough.  The most obvious signs that this was written in the middle of the last century lie mainly in the lack of strong women or minority characters - except of course for "Queen Elizabeth". 

The audio book format won't ever replace the printed version, at least for me.  It does, however, provide a pleasant way to pass the time while you're mowing the lawn, driving, or engaged in some similar activity that won't allow you to read.  LibriVox is a great way to try it out without spending any cash, and most new releases are available for a fee at iTunes, or similar sources.