A few of weeks ago, I got called by a former client, who was ready to sell the home I'd sold them a few years before. It's always gratifying to get a call like that - after all, if they didn't think I did a good job for them when they bought their house, they'd hardly call me to sell it, right? To make it even better, they told me they had decided when they bought their home that they'd call me when they wanted to sell.
The odd thing about this call was, it was the THIRD call from a former client I received THAT Day! That's right, three people who bought homes from between 2007 and 2009 called me on the same day. I made arrangements with each of them to go look at their house and give them advice on pricing, as well as how best to market their home. As it turns out, all of them needed a bit of time to get their house ready for market - they all worked like crazy over the weekend, and I listed all three last Monday.
The Lincoln real estate market is strong right now - there is a shortage of quality listings on the market, and buyers are active. By Friday night, all three of my new listings were sold, and one of my sellers had already written up a contract on a new home. A second seller is still looking, but will probably buy a home in the next week or two. In addition, I sold two lots, which will turn into a pair of town homes (one of which is already sold!), and listed another new construction town home that is just getting started. All in all, my week was one of the best - and busiest - since I started selling real estate.
I know I'll never be this busy all the time - and who would want to? I don't mind working late when I need to, but I certainly don't want to do that every day. When it happens once in a while, it's great fun. Now, I'm taking a week off. I don't need to feel guilty - I got enough done this week!
Showing posts with label Real Estate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Real Estate. Show all posts
Monday, April 29, 2013
Monday, July 9, 2012
Moving Time!
They say that every Realtor should move occasionally, to better empathize with our clients. Since we've lived in our home for nearly 21 years, we were overdue for a move. We're fixing that now - we've got a home under contract, and will soon put our home on the market.
Theresa has been wanting to downsize - move into a town home, with fewer responsibilities and chores. Our home doesn't require a lot of maintenance, but it has a large, complicated yard, and there's always something that needs to be done.
I've resisted moving, mainly because I didn't think it was worth it to go to all the work and expense of selling, buying, and hauling things back and forth. Finally, I decided it was time.
We started out looking at VERY small town homes - roughly 900 square feet, with no basement. We made an offer on one - the seller was totally unwilling to meet us anywhere near half way on price - then settled for a less expensive alternative. Although neither of us was crazy about the street appeal, it was OK inside, and, with a little work, had a floor plan that would work for us. Since it was so much smaller than we were used to, we decided we'd need to enclose a sun room, and made the offer contingent on being able to do that. We were financing with a renovation loan, so we'd borrow money to do some repairs, along with the purchase.
Our first hurdle was to get permission from the homeowners association to add the room. This was a little harder than you might think - no one seemed to have a problem with it, but they didn't really think they could speak for the association. Finally, we were able to get a consensus from the board members that they would be OK with it.
The next problem was finding out if we could get a building permit - a task made much more difficult by the small lot - there was no way we could build and meet the standard set-back requirements of our city. After a bunch of calls, we were still not sure if we could do it or not.
The other issue that soon became apparent was that all the improvements we wanted to make would soon increase the cost of our "cheap" town home to something very nearly as expensive to live in as our home. Even though we wanted to simplify life, this didn't seem like a smart move. By over-improving the small property, we'd set ourselves up to be upside down in the new place for years to come.
Finally, due to all the above concerns, we decided we couldn't go through with this purchase. We cancelled the contract, and started looking again.
The first thing we did was go back to the original town home we had liked. It already had a sun room, and was in a great neighborhood, so it was a real possibility. Unfortunately, the monthly association dues were very high, so this property would be expensive. Although we were prepared to spend the money, we decided to spend a day looking at some other options.
First, we looked in some different neighborhoods. We've lived in South Lincoln for over 20 years, but there are some nice areas on the North side of town. We looked at a few places, but weren't bowled over by any of them - a couple were OK, but didn't really blow away our original choice. We also went up in price a bit, even looking at some that would have no cost advantage over living in our home. We still didn't find the perfect home. A bit discouraged, we headed home and decided to make one more computer search - this time including town homes without an association to handle snow removal and lawn care. One home stood out in this batch. Even though we were both tired of looking, we decided to make one more trip.
The home we found was in a great neighborhood. It was larger than most of the others we'd looked at - a little over 1200 square feet on the main floor. It had a full basement - unfinished, but with some possibilities for finish in the future - and a double garage. Not everything was exactly like we wanted, but it was close enough that we felt we could live with it until we got around to fixing it up to our tastes. I always tell people that "perfect doesn't exist", but this was just what we were looking for. There was no association, but the lawn is small enough that upkeep won't be a burden (and I may yet decide to have it done by a service). As a bonus, we also found out we could install a fence in the back yard - an unexpected bonus, since most town homes don't allow it.
We quickly decided to write an offer, and, after a counter or two, reached agreement with the sellers.
We've got inspections set up, and we're scheduled to close in a bit over a month. We'll be getting our home on the market in the next few days, and I'm sure we'll be swamped until after we're settled. In the next few weeks, I'll post about the process of getting our old house listed, what we did to get it ready, and what we're doing to the new home. For now, we're excited about this new chapter in our lives, and looking forward to the day when we can start to enjoy our new-found freedom.
Theresa has been wanting to downsize - move into a town home, with fewer responsibilities and chores. Our home doesn't require a lot of maintenance, but it has a large, complicated yard, and there's always something that needs to be done.
I've resisted moving, mainly because I didn't think it was worth it to go to all the work and expense of selling, buying, and hauling things back and forth. Finally, I decided it was time.
We started out looking at VERY small town homes - roughly 900 square feet, with no basement. We made an offer on one - the seller was totally unwilling to meet us anywhere near half way on price - then settled for a less expensive alternative. Although neither of us was crazy about the street appeal, it was OK inside, and, with a little work, had a floor plan that would work for us. Since it was so much smaller than we were used to, we decided we'd need to enclose a sun room, and made the offer contingent on being able to do that. We were financing with a renovation loan, so we'd borrow money to do some repairs, along with the purchase.
Our first hurdle was to get permission from the homeowners association to add the room. This was a little harder than you might think - no one seemed to have a problem with it, but they didn't really think they could speak for the association. Finally, we were able to get a consensus from the board members that they would be OK with it.
The next problem was finding out if we could get a building permit - a task made much more difficult by the small lot - there was no way we could build and meet the standard set-back requirements of our city. After a bunch of calls, we were still not sure if we could do it or not.
The other issue that soon became apparent was that all the improvements we wanted to make would soon increase the cost of our "cheap" town home to something very nearly as expensive to live in as our home. Even though we wanted to simplify life, this didn't seem like a smart move. By over-improving the small property, we'd set ourselves up to be upside down in the new place for years to come.
Finally, due to all the above concerns, we decided we couldn't go through with this purchase. We cancelled the contract, and started looking again.
The first thing we did was go back to the original town home we had liked. It already had a sun room, and was in a great neighborhood, so it was a real possibility. Unfortunately, the monthly association dues were very high, so this property would be expensive. Although we were prepared to spend the money, we decided to spend a day looking at some other options.
First, we looked in some different neighborhoods. We've lived in South Lincoln for over 20 years, but there are some nice areas on the North side of town. We looked at a few places, but weren't bowled over by any of them - a couple were OK, but didn't really blow away our original choice. We also went up in price a bit, even looking at some that would have no cost advantage over living in our home. We still didn't find the perfect home. A bit discouraged, we headed home and decided to make one more computer search - this time including town homes without an association to handle snow removal and lawn care. One home stood out in this batch. Even though we were both tired of looking, we decided to make one more trip.
The home we found was in a great neighborhood. It was larger than most of the others we'd looked at - a little over 1200 square feet on the main floor. It had a full basement - unfinished, but with some possibilities for finish in the future - and a double garage. Not everything was exactly like we wanted, but it was close enough that we felt we could live with it until we got around to fixing it up to our tastes. I always tell people that "perfect doesn't exist", but this was just what we were looking for. There was no association, but the lawn is small enough that upkeep won't be a burden (and I may yet decide to have it done by a service). As a bonus, we also found out we could install a fence in the back yard - an unexpected bonus, since most town homes don't allow it.
We quickly decided to write an offer, and, after a counter or two, reached agreement with the sellers.
We've got inspections set up, and we're scheduled to close in a bit over a month. We'll be getting our home on the market in the next few days, and I'm sure we'll be swamped until after we're settled. In the next few weeks, I'll post about the process of getting our old house listed, what we did to get it ready, and what we're doing to the new home. For now, we're excited about this new chapter in our lives, and looking forward to the day when we can start to enjoy our new-found freedom.
Monday, April 16, 2012
The Hot Real Estate Market in Lincoln
I frequently have people ask me, "Is anything at all selling right now?" My answer so far this year is, "Absolutely!"
A few years ago, we had around 2,500 homes listed in the MLS in Lincoln and the surrounding areas - today, we have fewer than 1,500. One of the measures of the real estate market in our area is the Absorption Rate. This measurement is derived from dividing the number of homes in a specific price range by the number sold in the previous 12 months. In essence, it tells us how long the supply of homes would last, if no new listings appeared. This doesn't give us an "average time on market", but it does serve as a rough measure of activity. An absorption rate of more than 6 (as in more than a six month supply in a given price range) means we're in a buyer's market - there are plenty of homes listed, and buyers can take their time and, due to the slow activity, have more leverage in negotiations.
A couple of years ago, the absorption rate was consistently over 6, and sometimes even higher. Now, in price ranges lower than $350,000, it's below 6, and a number of categories are around 4. What does this mean in the real world? It means if you're buying a house, you'd better be prepared to move quickly when you find your dream home. Recently, I worked with a couple looking for a home in one of the "hot" price ranges - between $175,000 and $200,000. Five or six times, homes sold before we could get an appointment to view them. When we found the right home for them, we faced the prospect of facing multiple offers - effectively ending any thoughts of trying to buy for significantly less than the list price.
I'm seeing the same thing play out over and over - last night I was showing homes in another price range, and out of six homes on the list, one had a "Sold" sign when we pulled up in front. I've also seen some of my listings sell very quickly, including two that sold on the first day on the market! While prices are still down slightly from their highs of a few years ago, we are now definitely in a Seller's Market. That's great news if you want to see the real estate market recover - if homes sell quickly (and especially if we start to see multiple offers), sellers will begin to receive prices closer to their asking price, and values will begin to creep up. This should also help new construction, since new homes will be needed to fill demand.
Our economy is still weak. As it improves, we'll start to see real estate take off. What I'm seeing now is an indication that we're working our way out of the hole.
A few years ago, we had around 2,500 homes listed in the MLS in Lincoln and the surrounding areas - today, we have fewer than 1,500. One of the measures of the real estate market in our area is the Absorption Rate. This measurement is derived from dividing the number of homes in a specific price range by the number sold in the previous 12 months. In essence, it tells us how long the supply of homes would last, if no new listings appeared. This doesn't give us an "average time on market", but it does serve as a rough measure of activity. An absorption rate of more than 6 (as in more than a six month supply in a given price range) means we're in a buyer's market - there are plenty of homes listed, and buyers can take their time and, due to the slow activity, have more leverage in negotiations.
A couple of years ago, the absorption rate was consistently over 6, and sometimes even higher. Now, in price ranges lower than $350,000, it's below 6, and a number of categories are around 4. What does this mean in the real world? It means if you're buying a house, you'd better be prepared to move quickly when you find your dream home. Recently, I worked with a couple looking for a home in one of the "hot" price ranges - between $175,000 and $200,000. Five or six times, homes sold before we could get an appointment to view them. When we found the right home for them, we faced the prospect of facing multiple offers - effectively ending any thoughts of trying to buy for significantly less than the list price.
I'm seeing the same thing play out over and over - last night I was showing homes in another price range, and out of six homes on the list, one had a "Sold" sign when we pulled up in front. I've also seen some of my listings sell very quickly, including two that sold on the first day on the market! While prices are still down slightly from their highs of a few years ago, we are now definitely in a Seller's Market. That's great news if you want to see the real estate market recover - if homes sell quickly (and especially if we start to see multiple offers), sellers will begin to receive prices closer to their asking price, and values will begin to creep up. This should also help new construction, since new homes will be needed to fill demand.
Our economy is still weak. As it improves, we'll start to see real estate take off. What I'm seeing now is an indication that we're working our way out of the hole.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
I'm Number One! (well, kind of, not really)
A few days ago, I received the award for Most Listings taken in December of last year for my office. I've done well in Real Estate (I've received a "Gold" level sales award every year since I've been in the business), but it's unusual for me to end up #1 in a sales category. Sometimes, everything comes together at the same time. It's pleasing to me, but not the biggest thing in my life.
My goal in real estate has never been to be the biggest, even in my own office. Don't get me wrong - I like being successful, and I'm competitive enough to want to win almost everything I do. I definitely want to be the BEST real estate agent in town - but best isn't necessarily the same as the biggest! I'd certainly LIKE to sell five times as much as I do (and feel free to call me if you want to buy or sell!), but I don't think I can do that kind of volume, provide great service to my clients, AND have the kind of life I want.
When I got into real estate, I assumed it would be pretty easy - show a few homes, write contracts, and rake in the big bucks. What I didn't realize was that most of the work STARTS after the contract is written - inspections, negotiations (both before and after the contract is in place), contractual deadlines, and just general firefighting! I'm always the most busy when I have several deals in the works - showing homes to buyers is the easy (and fun) part. Since many of my transactions tend to be for less expensive properties, I may have more deals in the works than other agents who sell as much or more than I - I suspect I spend more time on my average transaction than some other agents. That's OK - it's just the way I do business.
I'm not in Real Estate as a hobby - this is my career - so I do want to be successful. I feel that by providing the best service I can, I'll serve the interests of my clients and grow my business through referrals from people I've helped in the past. When people recommend me to their family and friends who are thinking of making a move it helps me to grow my business, and they'll know they've helped them get effective representation for their real estate needs.
When I get an award, I'll let you know about it, but it's not what I'm really all about. I'll keep doing what I do, and when I end up with a plaque, there will be plenty of room for it on the wall in my office!
My goal in real estate has never been to be the biggest, even in my own office. Don't get me wrong - I like being successful, and I'm competitive enough to want to win almost everything I do. I definitely want to be the BEST real estate agent in town - but best isn't necessarily the same as the biggest! I'd certainly LIKE to sell five times as much as I do (and feel free to call me if you want to buy or sell!), but I don't think I can do that kind of volume, provide great service to my clients, AND have the kind of life I want.
When I got into real estate, I assumed it would be pretty easy - show a few homes, write contracts, and rake in the big bucks. What I didn't realize was that most of the work STARTS after the contract is written - inspections, negotiations (both before and after the contract is in place), contractual deadlines, and just general firefighting! I'm always the most busy when I have several deals in the works - showing homes to buyers is the easy (and fun) part. Since many of my transactions tend to be for less expensive properties, I may have more deals in the works than other agents who sell as much or more than I - I suspect I spend more time on my average transaction than some other agents. That's OK - it's just the way I do business.
I'm not in Real Estate as a hobby - this is my career - so I do want to be successful. I feel that by providing the best service I can, I'll serve the interests of my clients and grow my business through referrals from people I've helped in the past. When people recommend me to their family and friends who are thinking of making a move it helps me to grow my business, and they'll know they've helped them get effective representation for their real estate needs.
When I get an award, I'll let you know about it, but it's not what I'm really all about. I'll keep doing what I do, and when I end up with a plaque, there will be plenty of room for it on the wall in my office!
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Why Should I Build a New Home?
As you're probably aware, now is a great time to buy an existing home. The housing slump has pushed home prices down, so there are some great buys out there. In addition, interest rates continue to be at or near historic lows, so your total cost is, in real terms, as low as it is likely to be for the foreseeable future.
New home costs are also down - mainly because builders are cutting their margins to try to compete - but, since material and labor costs haven't gone down (and many have gone up), there's a limit to how low the prices can go. So, if the best buys are in existing homes, why in the world would anyone decide to build a new home? Actually, there are a number of really good reasons why you'd pick now to build your new home:
New home costs are also down - mainly because builders are cutting their margins to try to compete - but, since material and labor costs haven't gone down (and many have gone up), there's a limit to how low the prices can go. So, if the best buys are in existing homes, why in the world would anyone decide to build a new home? Actually, there are a number of really good reasons why you'd pick now to build your new home:
- Prices are attractive. I know, I just said the best bargains are existing homes, but that doesn't change the fact that builders are working hard to make their products more affordable. Lot prices may be better, and new technologies are allowing builders to save during construction.
- They don't build them like they used to. In this case, that's a good thing. The builder I represent, Goings Homes, is a builder of Green Homes - featuring design and construction features to enhance the Energy Efficiency, Environmental, Health, and Safety features of the home. A home built with these features will save energy today, and, when you factor in resale value, is very likely to cost less in the long run.
- You can have exactly what you want. A few years ago, our neighbors asked me to help them sell their home and purchase a town home. They had purchased their home from the builder, and had maintained it impeccably for 49 years, so clearly they would plan on staying in the new home for some time - in fact, it will probably be the last home they buy. They would need a quality home, and didn't need to settle for something "just OK". After searching, we quickly determined they wouldn't be happy with someone else's home - they all needed work. We did find a very nice town home, built by a reputable local builder, that was complete. Since it had been complete for some time, the price was very attractive, but it wasn't quite what they dreamed of - they really wanted some upgrades, and preferred different woodwork and cabinets. In addition, the location, while nice, didn't sit exactly like they wanted. In the end, they ended up building a home, and having everything just the way they wanted it. Did it cost a little more? Of course - in fact, they spent about 10% more for the home than they would have for the existing (but still new) one, even allowing for the upgrades. They got what they wanted, and they'll live there for years - the extra cost was more than made up for by the satisfaction of living in their dream home.
- Reduced Maintenance Costs. When you buy a new home, you're getting new everything - wiring, plumbing, roofing, carpet, heating and air conditioning, appliances - the whole ball of wax. Yes, you've paid a little more, but you won't have to put a roof on in a few years. With an existing home, something is going to need attention eventually, sometimes pretty quickly. Most builders will offer a warranty covering their construction methods and materials, and appliances will be covered by a manufacturers warranty.
- You never stay in one home for long. My neighbors lived in their home for 49 years - that's one extreme. I had a client who was moving for the 5th time in 8 years - that's the other extreme. Figure out where you are on that scale - if you're likely to move in just a few years, think hard before you buy new. An exception would be if you are transferred for work and have a relocation package that guarantees you won't lose money on the sale of your home (the case with my client mentioned above). The point is, you'll lose money if you have a home built and immediately try to sell it. Think about it - why would you buy a used home for the same amount you could have a brand new one built?
- You absolutely want to live in a particular established neighborhood. In Lincoln, as in most cities, there are some lovely older neighborhoods that have a character and charm that appeals to certain buyers. In those cases, it's unlikely you'll find an available lot, and, if you do, your new home will be out of place surrounded by stately older houses.
- You love old homes. In my experience, there are two types of people - Old Home People, and everybody else. People who love old homes see the beauty in them - they like the creaking floors, plaster walls, drafty windows, and cave-like basements. There's nothing wrong with that - just like there's nothing wrong with the buyer who wants nothing to do with any of that. Look around a little, and see what you really like before you make a decision.
- You really like to fix up a home yourself. Some people will remodel a house, no matter what its condition. If that's you, go ahead and buy a home that needs some work. I have a good friend who is extremely handy. He has the time, ability, and money to fix up a home so it's just how he wants it. A few years ago, he and his wife bought a new home. They got a great deal on it, but it was very plain - white walls, cheap, white countertops, carpeting in the kitchen, etc. I didn't really like it very much when I first saw it. After they bought it, he did just a few things to it: Removed living room windows and replaced with much larger, better windows, Painted the entire home, Added enclosed, heated sun room on the back of the home, Replaced kitchen countertops, Finished almost the entire basement, Added underground sprinklers, Removed kitchen carpeting and replaced with ceramic tile, Replaced virtually every light fixture in the house, Removed the stained baseboard trim, painted, and re-installed, Added crown molding, and probably a bunch of other things I can't recall. The house is beautiful - you wouldn't recognize it. It probably made sense to him, but for almost anybody else, this would be nuts! If you want a house like that, it's more cost effective and less frustrating to just have it built that way.
- You need something right NOW. Building a home from scratch takes around 6 months, so if you've sold your home, and have very little time to get out (and you're not willing to rent while your home is being finished), you'll need to buy something that's already complete. That could be a spec home - new construction built without a commitment from a buyer - but it will most likely be an existing home that someone is leaving.
- Cost is your primary consideration. Face it, if you are looking at the very low end of the price scale, new construction just isn't in the cards. In Lincoln, many home buyers are looking at or below $100,000. There are few, if any, new homes available in that price range, and those that are may or may not have the size or features you require. There are plenty of great deals out there for existing homes - you'll find something great in your price range.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Short Sales - What to do if you are upside down on your home
In today's economy, many homeowners are faced with a problem: They need or want to sell their home, but they are not able to clear enough from the sale to pay off their mortgage. This can be the result of some or all of the following factors:
While it may not matter why you got upside down, your particular circumstances will determine what you can do next. You may have one or more of the following choices for action:
- The homeowner has refinanced, or taken out a second mortgage.
- The loss of a job, or a cutback in hours or income, has made it difficult to keep up with payments. Often the financial setback is caused or accompanied by a serious health problem.
- The homeowner financed the home with a small or no down payment, and they've not lived there long enough to pay the mortgage down significantly.
- The decline in home values has eaten up the equity in the home.
- Maintenance has been skipped or delayed, causing the property to deteriorate.
While it may not matter why you got upside down, your particular circumstances will determine what you can do next. You may have one or more of the following choices for action:
- Do Nothing. If you don't have to move, don't move! Even if your home is worth only half of what you paid for it, so what? Unless you need to sell it, your loss is only theoretical until you actually have to unload it. If you don't need to get out of town, and you are able to keep up on the payments, you are probably best served by just staying put, making the payments, and waiting for the market to improve. When it does, you can get out from under the mortgage without digging too deeply into your pocket.
- Increase your income or reduce your expenses. If you're in trouble because your hours got cut, try adding a part-time job. If that doesn't work, reduce your monthly obligations. Sell a car, cut back on cable TV or internet service. If you work at it, you may be able to save enough to enable you to keep up on the mortgage. Focus on building savings or paying down your mortgage, to put it back in line with current property values.
- Talk to your bank. Guess what? They don't want your home! They'd like you to keep your home, and work on getting your payments back on schedule.They may be able to lower your interest rate, or even allow you to just make interest payments until you get back on your feet. The worst thing you can do is to just fall behind on payments without talking to your lender - do that, and you'll lose it for sure. See what they can do for you.
- Sell your home, and pay the extra money it takes to close the deal. Do you have some assets you can sell or borrow against to get cash to close? Check with your mortgage holder or local bank to see if you can take a personal loan. As disappointing as it may seem to borrow money to sell your home, remenber - it is your responsibility. You owe the money, and you have an obligation to pay it back if you're able.
- Give the bank title in lieu of forclosure. This means you'll turn the house over to the lender, without them going to the expense of the foreclosure procedure. Sometimes - not always - a bank will do this in order to mitigate their loss. The down side is, it is likely to have the same effect on your credit rating as a foreclosure.
- Pursue a short sale. A short sale just means you sell your home, and your lender agrees to accept less than the full payment of your mortgage. Why would a bank go along with that? Because it saves them money to clear these loans without going through the foreclosure process. The advantage to the seller is that, while you'll still take a hit to your credit rating, it won't be as bad as a foreclosure. You'll also have the satisfaction of knowing you've done what you could to mitigate the bank's loss.
- Some circumstances have caused him to get in a financial hole. Loss of job, serious illness, divorce, legal problems, or a similar personal difficulty has made it impossible to continue to live here.
- A forced move out of the area means he can't stay in the home. Just wanting a different home is not an acceptable reason for you to not pay your home off. If you've lost your job and have to move out of state to find work, that may be your only choice.
- No other other options are available. Don't expect the bank to take a short sale if you have cash or other liquid assets. They aren't going to let you get by that easy!
- The homeowner is willing to ask the bank to take a short sale, and they're persistent enough to follow through and keep pushing for a resolution. If you're too shy or embarrassed to ask, you won't get what you want.
- Talk to your lender. Get your most recent statement, and call them up. Explain your situation, and tell them you need to pursue a short sale. Don't expect them to approve it now - you're just getting the ball rolling, getting a jump on the process. Keep in mind, their goal at this time will be to make this hard for you - they really want to get all their money! Be patient, but persistent - your leverage is their desire to minimize their loss. They may ask for some documentation, and have some forms to sign, that's normal.
- Pick a realtor with experience in short sales. Virtually every lender will want you to have a realtor to market the home. They will probably want a Comparative Market Analysis or a Broker's Price Opinion to give them a good idea of the home's value. The banks understand the value of a realtor, and they'll negotiate a commission - to be paid by the bank - with your agent.
- Put the home on the market at an aggressive price. Your job is to try to maximize the price, while getting the home sold in as short a time as possible. A short sale is a pain for a buyer, so they'll want to buy it at the low end of its value. Don't, however, accept an offer that is too far below the fair market value - by doing so, you'll just set yourself up for failure when the bank won't approve it.
- Once you have an offer, and accept it, your realtor will present it to the bank. Expect the bank to take some time to evaluate the offer - most take between 6 weeks and two months, but I've had them take as little as 2 weeks, and as long as 7 months.
- When the bank approves the sale, they'll have an addendum to sign. One of the requirements is that the sale is "as is" - they should also have a statement that they release you from your debt obligation. Read it carefully, and get legal advice if you're not comfortable with anything. Most banks are reasonable when it gets to this point - the decision has been made, and they just want to get it done. Be prepared to move fast once they say OK - they'll usually want to move as fast as possible at that point.
Monday, December 19, 2011
What About Home Inspections?
If you've bought or sold a home within the last few years, chances are you've given at least some thought to home inspections. In my job as a Realtor with HOME Real Estate, I've seen buyers and sellers use the inspection process to their advantage. I've also seen and heard about many who have not taken advantage of this powerful tool in the home buying process.
Before we go any further, let's define exactly what we're talking about - what kinds of inspections are appropriate for most buyers and sellers? In almost all instances, the starting point should be a Whole House Inspection. This inspection will give an overall indication of a home's condition, and will specifically look for issues relating to major systems, as well as health and safety issues. A thorough whole house inspection will look at the roof, plumbing, electrical system, furnace, air conditioner, foundation, attic, and even appliances. A whole house inspector is a "generalist" - it may be necessary to contact a specialist for specific issues.
In addition to the whole house inspection, you may also want a few more specific inspections:
It's a no-brainer: If you're buying a home, get an inspection. In my opinion, there are very few instances where it makes sense to skip this important step:
OK, so you're convinced, right? So, how do we go about picking an inspector? First of all, ask your realtor for recomendations. Hopefully, you've done a good job picking a realtor, and you've found one who is looking out for your interests. He'll probably be involved in more transactions in a single year than you will be in your entire life, so his opinion should count for something. The realtor's recomendation is a starting point, but you should still perform your due dillagence - it's time to ask some questions:
Most inspectors will check the house out, then go over the report with you. Don't miss this walk through! Sometimes the report will have a number of issues identified, but they're minor things that shouldn't be alarming - it can be hard to tell what's a big deal and what isn't without talking to the inspector. Again, you should feel free to ask any questions during the walk through, and most inspectors will invite you to call them if you have any other questions after reading the whole report.
One caution: don't get freaked out if you have a long report - every house will have some issues. Try to identify which are serious, and focus on getting those taken care of. Don't lose a lot of sleep over minor issues. Remember, the seller wants to keep the deal together at least as bad as you do, so he should be willing to work with you to get the necessary repairs completed. If you're reasonable, you'll be fine.
Inspections are nothing to be afraid of. They are an important tool that will help the buyer and seller successfully complete their transaction.
Before we go any further, let's define exactly what we're talking about - what kinds of inspections are appropriate for most buyers and sellers? In almost all instances, the starting point should be a Whole House Inspection. This inspection will give an overall indication of a home's condition, and will specifically look for issues relating to major systems, as well as health and safety issues. A thorough whole house inspection will look at the roof, plumbing, electrical system, furnace, air conditioner, foundation, attic, and even appliances. A whole house inspector is a "generalist" - it may be necessary to contact a specialist for specific issues.
In addition to the whole house inspection, you may also want a few more specific inspections:
- Termite inspection (most likely required, if you are financing your home).
- Mold test (typically performed after some evidence of possible mold is noted on the whole house inspection report)
- Radon test
- Other specific inspections based on concerns raised in the whole house inspection - includes a roof, foundation, furnace and air, etc.
It's a no-brainer: If you're buying a home, get an inspection. In my opinion, there are very few instances where it makes sense to skip this important step:
- If you are in the building trades, you may be able to spot most potential problems yourself. Keep in mind, you may forfeit your right to cancel the contract if you don't have an inspection.
- If you are buying a home that has been pre-inspected by a reputable company, you may be able to rely on that inspection. You should only do so if the inspection has been performed fairly recently (certainly no more than 6 months), of course.
- If you are buying a distressed home (short sale, foreclosure, etc.). The sale will be as-is, and you should know enough to be comfortable with the home's condition. Be prepared to do some repairs.
- If you're buying a home you've lived in for a significant period of time, you may already know about all its faults.
OK, so you're convinced, right? So, how do we go about picking an inspector? First of all, ask your realtor for recomendations. Hopefully, you've done a good job picking a realtor, and you've found one who is looking out for your interests. He'll probably be involved in more transactions in a single year than you will be in your entire life, so his opinion should count for something. The realtor's recomendation is a starting point, but you should still perform your due dillagence - it's time to ask some questions:
- What is the cost of the inspection?
- What exactly is covered? Is there a separate charge for the furnace and air inspection, termite inspection, or other tests?
- Does the inspection company also perform repairs, or do the specialize in inspections? It may be OK for an inspection company to offer repair or mediation services, but it could cause a conflict of interest.
- What training or certification is required of this company's inspectors?
- What additional tests or inspections does the company offer and/or recommend?
- What happens if the inspector makes an error - will the company stand behind it?
Most inspectors will check the house out, then go over the report with you. Don't miss this walk through! Sometimes the report will have a number of issues identified, but they're minor things that shouldn't be alarming - it can be hard to tell what's a big deal and what isn't without talking to the inspector. Again, you should feel free to ask any questions during the walk through, and most inspectors will invite you to call them if you have any other questions after reading the whole report.
One caution: don't get freaked out if you have a long report - every house will have some issues. Try to identify which are serious, and focus on getting those taken care of. Don't lose a lot of sleep over minor issues. Remember, the seller wants to keep the deal together at least as bad as you do, so he should be willing to work with you to get the necessary repairs completed. If you're reasonable, you'll be fine.
Inspections are nothing to be afraid of. They are an important tool that will help the buyer and seller successfully complete their transaction.
Friday, December 9, 2011
Simple Electrical Repairs
As a long-time do-it-yourselfer, I'm used to working with electricity. I've been zapped a few times (that's pretty much always a consequence of taking shortcuts, or doing something that you KNOW is unsafe), but nothing too serious, and, if you're reasonably handy, there's no reason you can't do many electrical repairs yourself.
First, a caveat: In most cases, you are allowed to do your own electrical work, but you still must follow the applicable codes, and you may need a permit. Contact your local building and safety department for clarification. If you're not comfortable doing the work, don't do it - saving a few bucks is not worth taking foolish chances.
If you're sufficiently scared, let's look at a few common problems, and how to fix them. Before you start, you'll need a few tools - Wire Cutters, Wire Stripper, Screwdrivers (Flat Blade and Phillips), long nose pliers, and a voltage tester (for more complex issues, you may need a multi-meter, instead of a voltage tester).
Replacing a light switch (or installing a dimmer), is simple. Let's assume you're replacing a standard wall switch with an identical one. Here's what you do:
Replacing an outlet is almost exactly the same, except you'll need to connect an extra wire. After shutting off the power and removing the old outlet, look at your wires. In most cases, there will be three wires hooked up to the outlet - Black, White, and Green (or Bare). It's Very important to hook these wires up to the right terminals on your new outlet.
Replacing a light fixture is not difficult, and it can be a great way to dress up a room.
If you blow fuses, you need to check to see how many amps you're using. For this, you'll need a digital multimeter that has a clamp-on inductive amp meter. With that, you can measure the amount of current being used (measured in amps). A standard circuit has a 15 amp breaker. If you put the meter around the wire leading from the breaker, it will tell you how many amps you're pulling. Put it on there and check, then go turn everything on that is on that circuit - if you're close to 15 amps, you've got too much, and you should change things up.
If you've just started to blow your breaker, it's possible you have a short,a bad breaker, or a bad appliance that is causing the problem. To test for this, turn everything off that works on the suspect breaker. Check one thing at a time, and see if something is using more power than it should (everything should have a label showing it's wattage rating). Volts * Amps = Watts, so something that is rated for 800 watts should use a maximum of around 7 amps (7*115 =805). Most of the time it will use a shade less that it's rated wattage. Most likely, you'll find something that either blows the circuit right away or uses more power than it should. If you find it, repair or replace it - adding a circuit won't solve the problem. If you can't find a problem, you probably just have too much on one circuit.
If you're lucky, you'll have an empty spot in your breaker box. If you do, you can just buy a new breaker (in this example, a 15 amp single pole), and install it in the box. Breakers are made to fit specific boxes, so you'll have to get exactly the same thing that's in yours. Most of them just snap into place - if you can't see how it works, ask at the hardware store and they'll tell you. You can snap in a new breaker without killing the power to the whole box, but it's safest to turn off the main breaker at the top of the box while you're messing around in there. Even with the main breaker off, there will be power at the terminals where the power line comes into the house. Use your meter and carefully check for voltage, so you know where it is.
After you put your new breaker in, you'll need to run your wires to it. You'll want to run romex cable all the way from the main panel to your new circuit. Remember, use at least 14 gauge wire for a 15 amp breaker, 12 gauge for a 20 amp. In any case, run cable that has a separate ground wire, even if your existing wire doesn't have the ground. If the area you're running power to is unfinished, or if you have access to an unfinished area below or above it to run the wire, it's pretty easy. If you have to pull cable across a finished area, you may need professional help.
In any case, run your cable, and hook up your outlets or lighting fixtures as described above. Every junction should be in a junction box, and any cable run should go inside the wall or ceiling. Anything run along the surface of a finished wall should be in conduit. The black wire should always be hot (hooked up to the breaker), and the white wire is neutral. If you look in your panel, you'll see a buss bar with all the white wires connected. In most cases (but not all), the ground wire will be hooked to the same bar.
As I said before, if you're not comfortable working with electricity, get a professional. If you're not intimidated, however, there are many simple repairs you can safely tackle yourself. Start off small, shut off the power before you start, and you'll be able to repair most of the issues commonly found in the home.
First, a caveat: In most cases, you are allowed to do your own electrical work, but you still must follow the applicable codes, and you may need a permit. Contact your local building and safety department for clarification. If you're not comfortable doing the work, don't do it - saving a few bucks is not worth taking foolish chances.
If you're sufficiently scared, let's look at a few common problems, and how to fix them. Before you start, you'll need a few tools - Wire Cutters, Wire Stripper, Screwdrivers (Flat Blade and Phillips), long nose pliers, and a voltage tester (for more complex issues, you may need a multi-meter, instead of a voltage tester).
Replacing a light switch (or installing a dimmer), is simple. Let's assume you're replacing a standard wall switch with an identical one. Here's what you do:
- Shut off the power at the circuit breaker. Don't assume the labels on the box are correct - test it first. Experienced electricians will sometimes work on a "hot" circuit, but you shouldn't. When you turn off the breaker, lock it out so no one can turn it on (or at least put a note on it, to warn anyone that you're working on it).
- Remove the plate cover, and take out the two screws holding the switch in the box. There should be enough slack in the wires to allow you to pull the switch away from the wall.
- There will most likely be two black wires hooked up to terminals on the switch - these are the power leads. One will supply power to the switch, and the other will send power to the light or appliance to be energized. Depending on your home's wiring, there may or may not be a green or bare ground wire attached to the switch.
- Remove the wires from the old switch. There are two methods that are typically used to hook the wires up to the switch - they'll either be hooked up with screws, or inserted through holes in the back of the switch and retained with spring clips. If the latter method us used, it's easiest to just cut the wires flush with the switch body.
- Strip the insulation off the wires, and connect them to the switch. In most cases, it's best to use the screw terminals - bend the wire in a half circle around the screw in a clockwise direction, and tighten securely.
- Carefully push the switch back in the box, being careful to avoid loosening the wires. Tighten the screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the plate cover. Turn on the power, and test it - you're done!
Replacing an outlet is almost exactly the same, except you'll need to connect an extra wire. After shutting off the power and removing the old outlet, look at your wires. In most cases, there will be three wires hooked up to the outlet - Black, White, and Green (or Bare). It's Very important to hook these wires up to the right terminals on your new outlet.
- Look at your new outlet - the screws on one side will be silver, and the other side are brass. The black wire is the "hot" wire, and it should be attached to the brass side. The white wire is the "neutral" wire, and is hooked up to the silver side. If you mix up the hot and neutral wires, the outlet will still work, but the polarity will be reversed, and could be dangerous. If you're not sure which is which, get help to determine which is which. If you have a third wire (green or bare), it will be attached to the green wire on the outlet.
Replacing a light fixture is not difficult, and it can be a great way to dress up a room.
- Kill the power, and remove the old fixture. Again, you should have a black (hot) wire and a white (neutral) wire. You may or may not have a green or bare ground wire.
- Check to make sure the junction box is firmly attached, and able to support the weight of the fixture. If you're installing a ceiling fan, you must have a metal box that's firmly attached to a ceiling structural beam.
- Strip the wires, and connect the black wire from the new fixture to the black power wire using the proper size wire nut. The fixture will probably have wire nuts included, or you can pick them up in any hardware store. They're color coded, and the package will list what size/quantity of wires for which each is designed. To use the wire nut, just lay the two wires together, and screw it on securely - test it by pulling on the wire. Repeat for the white wire. The ground wire, if available, will usually be connected directly to the fixture with a screw terminal.
- The new fixture will have a strap that attaches to the junction box. Make sure it's securely attached, then attach the fixture to it per the included directions. Ceiling fans will have specific mounting directions, so you'll need to follow them carefully.
- When you're done, check to make sure you're putting the proper wattage bulb in the fixture, then test it. Do not exceed the recommended wattage, or you could cause a fire.
If you blow fuses, you need to check to see how many amps you're using. For this, you'll need a digital multimeter that has a clamp-on inductive amp meter. With that, you can measure the amount of current being used (measured in amps). A standard circuit has a 15 amp breaker. If you put the meter around the wire leading from the breaker, it will tell you how many amps you're pulling. Put it on there and check, then go turn everything on that is on that circuit - if you're close to 15 amps, you've got too much, and you should change things up.
If you've just started to blow your breaker, it's possible you have a short,a bad breaker, or a bad appliance that is causing the problem. To test for this, turn everything off that works on the suspect breaker. Check one thing at a time, and see if something is using more power than it should (everything should have a label showing it's wattage rating). Volts * Amps = Watts, so something that is rated for 800 watts should use a maximum of around 7 amps (7*115 =805). Most of the time it will use a shade less that it's rated wattage. Most likely, you'll find something that either blows the circuit right away or uses more power than it should. If you find it, repair or replace it - adding a circuit won't solve the problem. If you can't find a problem, you probably just have too much on one circuit.
If you're lucky, you'll have an empty spot in your breaker box. If you do, you can just buy a new breaker (in this example, a 15 amp single pole), and install it in the box. Breakers are made to fit specific boxes, so you'll have to get exactly the same thing that's in yours. Most of them just snap into place - if you can't see how it works, ask at the hardware store and they'll tell you. You can snap in a new breaker without killing the power to the whole box, but it's safest to turn off the main breaker at the top of the box while you're messing around in there. Even with the main breaker off, there will be power at the terminals where the power line comes into the house. Use your meter and carefully check for voltage, so you know where it is.
After you put your new breaker in, you'll need to run your wires to it. You'll want to run romex cable all the way from the main panel to your new circuit. Remember, use at least 14 gauge wire for a 15 amp breaker, 12 gauge for a 20 amp. In any case, run cable that has a separate ground wire, even if your existing wire doesn't have the ground. If the area you're running power to is unfinished, or if you have access to an unfinished area below or above it to run the wire, it's pretty easy. If you have to pull cable across a finished area, you may need professional help.
In any case, run your cable, and hook up your outlets or lighting fixtures as described above. Every junction should be in a junction box, and any cable run should go inside the wall or ceiling. Anything run along the surface of a finished wall should be in conduit. The black wire should always be hot (hooked up to the breaker), and the white wire is neutral. If you look in your panel, you'll see a buss bar with all the white wires connected. In most cases (but not all), the ground wire will be hooked to the same bar.
As I said before, if you're not comfortable working with electricity, get a professional. If you're not intimidated, however, there are many simple repairs you can safely tackle yourself. Start off small, shut off the power before you start, and you'll be able to repair most of the issues commonly found in the home.
Friday, November 11, 2011
My Phone
I can't say I didn't have plenty of warning. My phone had been acting up for over a year - locking up, shutting down, and, most puzzling, rebooting every time I tried to bring up the "Memo" app. I can't say I wasn't warned.
I got it about 4 years ago - my first smart phone. I decided to get it because I needed a method of opening the electronic lock boxes used by realtors in town. The lock boxes had an infared port, and to open them, you needed a special "EKey", a Palm Pilot, or the appropriate smart phone. I had been using a Palm Pilot to open the boxes, but found it unhandy to have to carry that, as well as my phone. In addition, I had to manually sync the Palm every day in order to open the lock boxes - a process that required me to go to the office and fire up my computer. The smart phone not only gave me lock box capability, it also allowed me to have mobile access to email, property listing information, the internet, my calendar, and contacts. I looked around, and chose the "Centro", a handy little phone running the Palm operating system.
My Centro worked great for several years. I quickly became dependent on the functionality, and I could even watch YouTube or browse the internet on the tiny screen. Of course, it was no substitute for a laptop, but you could actually get something done in a pinch. I can't tell you how many times I was able to Google something to get a phone number or directions.
When my phone started to act up, I decided I'd be proactive and go ahead and get a replacement. Unfortunately, I discovered that the new models didn't have the infared port, requiring the use of a separate small device to open the lock boxes. That seemed to me to be a step backward, so I decided to hold out as long as I could. My strategy seemed genius when I found out that the next generation of lock boxes would not require infared, using Bluetooth technology to communicate with the phone. Of course, the introduction of the new boxes was delayed, so I just kept on limping along with my old Centro.
I continued to delay, even once the new boxes were introduced - reasoning that it would be smart to wait until I was sure all the old ones were gone. After a couple of months, it was clear it was time - except by then, there was a special demo day scheduled at work, where Sprint would have a bunch of products and people around to explain them. It seemed like the perfect time to make the move.
Unfortunately, the day before the demo, my phone died completely. Since I don't have a land line - at home or at the office - I was in a bind. I also didn't have a PIN number to access my voice mail, so I needed to do something, and quickly. Since I'd been happy with Sprint, I decided to just stop in and pick one out.
Unfortunately, the first Sprint store I stopped in wasn't helpful. The young woman I talked to didn't even know as much as I did about which phones were capable of operating the EKey program, and she didn't seem to be too interested in helping me decide on a phone. In frustration, I left and headed to a different Sprint store.
The second store was a bit better. The salesperson I had was helpful, although it frustrated me that neither store knew anything about the planned demo at work, and couldn't give me any info about what kinds of discounts I could expect there. Since I was in a hurry, and desperate, I decided to swallow my frustration and just pick out a phone.
It seems my available options boiled down to three major operating systems - the Android, Blackberry, and the iPhone. I didn't know too much about any of them, but the phones running the Blackberry system didn't appeal to me - plus, my wife has a Blackberry phone, and I wasn't too impressed with it.
The iPhone is, by all accounts, great, but it needed an extra piece of hardware to communicate with the lock boxes. In addition, although there are a lot of apps out there for that phone, the Android has more free apps. I had played around a little with a couple of other Android phones, and was impressed, so I decided to go with that system.
I ended up buying a Samsung Epic phone. It has a ton of features, and a big, bright screen that's easy to see in all light conditions. Of course, everything works differently than on my old phone, so I was facing a steep learning curve. I soon discovered that it was going to take a little time to teach this old dog some new tricks.
I very quickly learned how to turn the phone on (yeah!), but my first problem came when I tried to answer the first call. The Epic is a touch screen, with virtually no buttons. All input is accomplished by touching or wiping the screen with a fingertip. I knew this, but no amount of touching the phone icon would answer when it rang! Since I knew how to dial, I just waited until the caller hung up, then called them back. Eventually I learned that, to answer the phone, you had to "wipe" the button across the screen. Problem solved!
Next, I spent an hour or so on the phone with our tech support guy Brian, installing software and getting the phone synced with my email system, so I could open lock boxes and have access to my email and calendar. That went well, except of course for my giving Brian a nervous breakdown. How he can spend all day beating his head against the brick walls that make up Realtors brains is beyond me, but I'm glad he does.
Now that I am up and running, my challenge is to learn to put the phone to work. I've spent the past couple of days learning the basics - how to move around menus, open and close apps, etc. Yesterday, I discovered that not all my calendar events were syncing to my desktop - this phone has the capability of syncing with a number of calendars, and I'd been putting appointments in my GMail Calendar, instead of the Outlook Calendar. Never mind the fact that I've never so much as opened up a calendar in GMail!
The biggest thing this phone fiasco has taught me is that I am remarkably less flexible and adaptable than I was when I was younger. I used to love getting new gadgets - playing with them and figuring them out was part (most) of the fun. Now, I just want everything to work! My old phone, ancient and cranky as it was, was familiar, and I knew just about every thing there was to know about operating it.
The moral of this story, if there is one, is that the transition to new technology is far easier if you upgrade before you're forced to. Trying to learn something new - at any age - is much more difficult when you're under pressure. Of course, I doubt very much if I actually learned anything from all this. I'm quite certain that, a few years from now, I'll once again be scrambling as I try to learn the latest, greatest, phone.
I got it about 4 years ago - my first smart phone. I decided to get it because I needed a method of opening the electronic lock boxes used by realtors in town. The lock boxes had an infared port, and to open them, you needed a special "EKey", a Palm Pilot, or the appropriate smart phone. I had been using a Palm Pilot to open the boxes, but found it unhandy to have to carry that, as well as my phone. In addition, I had to manually sync the Palm every day in order to open the lock boxes - a process that required me to go to the office and fire up my computer. The smart phone not only gave me lock box capability, it also allowed me to have mobile access to email, property listing information, the internet, my calendar, and contacts. I looked around, and chose the "Centro", a handy little phone running the Palm operating system.
My Centro worked great for several years. I quickly became dependent on the functionality, and I could even watch YouTube or browse the internet on the tiny screen. Of course, it was no substitute for a laptop, but you could actually get something done in a pinch. I can't tell you how many times I was able to Google something to get a phone number or directions.
When my phone started to act up, I decided I'd be proactive and go ahead and get a replacement. Unfortunately, I discovered that the new models didn't have the infared port, requiring the use of a separate small device to open the lock boxes. That seemed to me to be a step backward, so I decided to hold out as long as I could. My strategy seemed genius when I found out that the next generation of lock boxes would not require infared, using Bluetooth technology to communicate with the phone. Of course, the introduction of the new boxes was delayed, so I just kept on limping along with my old Centro.
I continued to delay, even once the new boxes were introduced - reasoning that it would be smart to wait until I was sure all the old ones were gone. After a couple of months, it was clear it was time - except by then, there was a special demo day scheduled at work, where Sprint would have a bunch of products and people around to explain them. It seemed like the perfect time to make the move.
Unfortunately, the day before the demo, my phone died completely. Since I don't have a land line - at home or at the office - I was in a bind. I also didn't have a PIN number to access my voice mail, so I needed to do something, and quickly. Since I'd been happy with Sprint, I decided to just stop in and pick one out.
Unfortunately, the first Sprint store I stopped in wasn't helpful. The young woman I talked to didn't even know as much as I did about which phones were capable of operating the EKey program, and she didn't seem to be too interested in helping me decide on a phone. In frustration, I left and headed to a different Sprint store.
The second store was a bit better. The salesperson I had was helpful, although it frustrated me that neither store knew anything about the planned demo at work, and couldn't give me any info about what kinds of discounts I could expect there. Since I was in a hurry, and desperate, I decided to swallow my frustration and just pick out a phone.
It seems my available options boiled down to three major operating systems - the Android, Blackberry, and the iPhone. I didn't know too much about any of them, but the phones running the Blackberry system didn't appeal to me - plus, my wife has a Blackberry phone, and I wasn't too impressed with it.
The iPhone is, by all accounts, great, but it needed an extra piece of hardware to communicate with the lock boxes. In addition, although there are a lot of apps out there for that phone, the Android has more free apps. I had played around a little with a couple of other Android phones, and was impressed, so I decided to go with that system.
I ended up buying a Samsung Epic phone. It has a ton of features, and a big, bright screen that's easy to see in all light conditions. Of course, everything works differently than on my old phone, so I was facing a steep learning curve. I soon discovered that it was going to take a little time to teach this old dog some new tricks.
I very quickly learned how to turn the phone on (yeah!), but my first problem came when I tried to answer the first call. The Epic is a touch screen, with virtually no buttons. All input is accomplished by touching or wiping the screen with a fingertip. I knew this, but no amount of touching the phone icon would answer when it rang! Since I knew how to dial, I just waited until the caller hung up, then called them back. Eventually I learned that, to answer the phone, you had to "wipe" the button across the screen. Problem solved!
Next, I spent an hour or so on the phone with our tech support guy Brian, installing software and getting the phone synced with my email system, so I could open lock boxes and have access to my email and calendar. That went well, except of course for my giving Brian a nervous breakdown. How he can spend all day beating his head against the brick walls that make up Realtors brains is beyond me, but I'm glad he does.
Now that I am up and running, my challenge is to learn to put the phone to work. I've spent the past couple of days learning the basics - how to move around menus, open and close apps, etc. Yesterday, I discovered that not all my calendar events were syncing to my desktop - this phone has the capability of syncing with a number of calendars, and I'd been putting appointments in my GMail Calendar, instead of the Outlook Calendar. Never mind the fact that I've never so much as opened up a calendar in GMail!
The biggest thing this phone fiasco has taught me is that I am remarkably less flexible and adaptable than I was when I was younger. I used to love getting new gadgets - playing with them and figuring them out was part (most) of the fun. Now, I just want everything to work! My old phone, ancient and cranky as it was, was familiar, and I knew just about every thing there was to know about operating it.
The moral of this story, if there is one, is that the transition to new technology is far easier if you upgrade before you're forced to. Trying to learn something new - at any age - is much more difficult when you're under pressure. Of course, I doubt very much if I actually learned anything from all this. I'm quite certain that, a few years from now, I'll once again be scrambling as I try to learn the latest, greatest, phone.
Monday, October 31, 2011
Replacement Vinyl Windows - Part 2: Getting It Done
In Part 1, I talked about how I made the decision to install windows myself. Once you've decided to tackle your window project, it's time for the really scary part - ordering them! What's scary about that is if you order them the wrong size, you've got a huge pile of expensive junk (especially if they're too large for your opening). The good thing is, it's not too hard to measure accurately.
Replacement windows install in the existing window frame - where the sashes move up and down - so you need to measure the opening carefully. You'll be removing everything from the window between the outside stop (the piece of wood that keeps the window from falling to the exterior of the house) and the inside stop (the trim pieces on the inside that keep the window from falling into the house). That will include the sashes (the top and bottom parts that move up and down, as well as any tracks, springs, dividers, ropes & pulleys, or whatever). The inside stops will be removed to install the windows, then replaced to hold them in. Don't touch the outside stops. Generally speaking, you'll do the whole installation (minus some caulking and paint touch up) from the inside.
The instructions for my windows said to order them 1/4" less than the width of the opening (the height is less critical, since there's a head expander you move up to fill the space). I did my windows in two batches - the first I tried to get almost exactly the size I thought they should be, and they were difficult to get in the openings. Once I did, there was very little room for shims and insulation. The next batch I ordered a bit smaller, and they fit in easier. The extra room is filled up with shims and non-expanding foam anyway, so it's every bit as tight when complete as the others, and it will be covered up with the inside stops/trim anyway.
I was fortunate, in that my old windows were almost perfectly square and plumb (all the corners were right angles, and the vertical sides were straight up-and-down). This simplifies both measurement and installation - but don't worry, you can still install windows if your old ones are a little off. If your old window frames are in very poor condition, or if they are rotted or leaking, you should not use replacement windows - you'll need to remove the old windows, frame and all, and replace them.
Measure in at least 3 locations horizontally and vertically, and DON'T assume all windows will be the same size. You should be able to measure your windows accurately without removing the old sashes - just take your time, and don't take shortcuts. Remember, you're measuring the area where your current windows slide up and down.
You also need to check to make sure your openings are square and plumb. The most accurate way to determine if they are square is to measure the diagonals - if they measure the same from corner to corner, the opening is square (assuming the length and width is also consistent). Check for plumb with a level on each side. It's important that your replacement window sits level in the frame, so if your opening is off, you'll need to order the window a little smaller to allow you to adjust it.
Most of the time, your windows will be custom made - so you won't be able to return them if you measure wrong. When you order them, you will typically tell them your "rough opening" size, and they will adjust the actual window size to fit. On the order form, it should give you window dimensions, so make sure it will fit - it is your responsibility to get it right.
One other thing you need to check is the depth or thickness of your old windows. Compare this to the dimensions of your replacements - if they're the same, you're in luck. If the new windows are thinner than the old (not likely), you can put some shims on the outside stop to make it work. If the new windows are thicker, as they were in my case, you'll need to move the outside stops or make adjustments to the inside trim. My old windows were only 31/4" thick, compared to 31/2" for the replacements, so I elected to fix the inside stops. I bought a cheap table saw, and was able to trim 1/4" from the inside edge of each board. Unfortunately, I also had to cut 1/4" from the window stool (the ledge on the bottom of the window trim). I was able to do this by cutting the nails holding it in place with a Dremel Multi-Max, removing the piece, and trimming it in the table saw. Most people don't have this step.
When your windows arrive, you'll want to remove the plastic wrapping, and store them standing upright (you don't want them laying flat on the floor. Avoid extreme heat for storage. Check all the dimensions carefully - you don't want to find out they're wrong after you've removed the old window! If they're not all the same size, mark each window with it's intended location.
Do yourself a favor, and install your first window in the least noticeable location (I started in a spare bedroom). If you have storm windows, remove screws or other hardware and take them down. You won't use storm windows now. Go inside and carefully remove the window casing (the trim around the window), as well as the inside stops that hold the sashes in place. At this point, you should be able to remove the sashes, and any hardware in the opening. Remember to leave the outside stops in place - they're what the replacement window sits against. Take a stiff putty knife, and scrape the opening to remove loose paint, caulk, etc.
Now is the time to see if you measured properly! Dry fit your window into the opening - set the bottom in place, and tilt it up and back until it rests against the outside stops. You should have a little room on each side (less than 1/4" on each side), and a bit more at the top. Pull the window out and set it aside. There should be a couple of pieces with the window. A channel that sits on the top, that will lift up to fill the space at the top of the window, and a "sill angle", that attaches on the bottom to match up with the existing window sill. Cut some fiberglass insulation, and put it on top of the window, then cover it with the channel. The sill angle usually slips into a slot on the bottom of the window.
Next, you'll need some "window and door caulk", to match your windows. Put a nice bead of caulk around the exterior stop, so your window will seal against it when installed. Also caulk against the stool (that's the ledge that is commonly on the inside) - if you have it. Don't go overboard on the caulk - just a nice even bead - too much just makes a mess.
Fit your window into the opening, and check, with your level, that the bottom is level, it's pushed tight against the outside stops, and that both sides are plumb. Slide the head extender up so it contacts the top of the opening. Install shims top and bottom, check again for plumb and level, and install screws through the installation holes. Don't tighten the screws at this time - they're just holding the window in place. The window should be solidly in the opening, and you can relax for a second.
When you're done relaxing, check to make sure you have shims in all 4 corners, and that the window is level and plumb. Tighten the screws just enough to get them snug, but not enough to distort the window. Add shims where needed - particularly in the center of each side, making sure it's still square and even. Operate the window and make sure it opens and closes properly.
You'll want to fill the empty space between your new window and the old frame. If you've got room, use "Door & Window, Non-Expanding Foam". Don't use the regular expanding foam - it expands too much, and will actually put pressure on the windows, bowing them so they don't operate properly. In any case, don't go overboard on the foam - even the non-expanding stuff will expand enough to fill the void.
If your windows are very tight in the opening (like my first batch were), you may have to fill the void with caulk or fiberglass insulation. I slid a little insulation in the crack with a putty knife, then caulked for a good seal.
Once you've sealed the window, all you have to do is re-install your interior stops and trim. In my case, this was complicated by having to trim 1/4" from each piece, but I didn't have to remove any of the window casing. If you can, use a pneumatic trim nailer - otherwise, you'll need a hammer and nail set. Fill the nail holes with matching putty, caulk outside between the exterior stop and the window, touch up any interior and exterior paint or stain, and you're done!
I read all the articles that said you'd take about an hour per window to swap them out - mine took quite a bit longer. My first window took over 6 hours from start to finish. I went very slowly, since I didn't want to mess something up. The second one took about 4 hours. After that, I would do two at once (since most of them were installed in pairs), in between 4 and 5 hours. One thing that slowed me down was I had to remove and re-install the old blinds and/or curtains - that's never accounted for in the articles. Of course, having to trim the inside stops (which also required re-cutting some miters), slowed me down even more. I also continued to move very slowly, trying to make sure I didn't make a mistake (I still made a few). Without those extra tasks, I'm certain I would have been able to average less than 3 hours per pair of windows, and might have gotten to 2 hours per pair (1 hour per window).
As far as cost, here's how I ended up:
I'm very glad I did this project myself. I saved a bunch of money, and I believe my finished project was of at least as high a quality as what I would have gotten had I paid for it. I also have a couple of new tools left from the project, too, and I used both of those in my room addition project at my lake home (more about that in the future). If you're not sure if you can do this or not, try one window. At the worst, you'll mess it up and have to pay someone to fix it. I'm guessing you'll find out it's not that tough, and you'll do just fine.
Replacement windows install in the existing window frame - where the sashes move up and down - so you need to measure the opening carefully. You'll be removing everything from the window between the outside stop (the piece of wood that keeps the window from falling to the exterior of the house) and the inside stop (the trim pieces on the inside that keep the window from falling into the house). That will include the sashes (the top and bottom parts that move up and down, as well as any tracks, springs, dividers, ropes & pulleys, or whatever). The inside stops will be removed to install the windows, then replaced to hold them in. Don't touch the outside stops. Generally speaking, you'll do the whole installation (minus some caulking and paint touch up) from the inside.
The instructions for my windows said to order them 1/4" less than the width of the opening (the height is less critical, since there's a head expander you move up to fill the space). I did my windows in two batches - the first I tried to get almost exactly the size I thought they should be, and they were difficult to get in the openings. Once I did, there was very little room for shims and insulation. The next batch I ordered a bit smaller, and they fit in easier. The extra room is filled up with shims and non-expanding foam anyway, so it's every bit as tight when complete as the others, and it will be covered up with the inside stops/trim anyway.
I was fortunate, in that my old windows were almost perfectly square and plumb (all the corners were right angles, and the vertical sides were straight up-and-down). This simplifies both measurement and installation - but don't worry, you can still install windows if your old ones are a little off. If your old window frames are in very poor condition, or if they are rotted or leaking, you should not use replacement windows - you'll need to remove the old windows, frame and all, and replace them.
Measure in at least 3 locations horizontally and vertically, and DON'T assume all windows will be the same size. You should be able to measure your windows accurately without removing the old sashes - just take your time, and don't take shortcuts. Remember, you're measuring the area where your current windows slide up and down.
You also need to check to make sure your openings are square and plumb. The most accurate way to determine if they are square is to measure the diagonals - if they measure the same from corner to corner, the opening is square (assuming the length and width is also consistent). Check for plumb with a level on each side. It's important that your replacement window sits level in the frame, so if your opening is off, you'll need to order the window a little smaller to allow you to adjust it.
Most of the time, your windows will be custom made - so you won't be able to return them if you measure wrong. When you order them, you will typically tell them your "rough opening" size, and they will adjust the actual window size to fit. On the order form, it should give you window dimensions, so make sure it will fit - it is your responsibility to get it right.
One other thing you need to check is the depth or thickness of your old windows. Compare this to the dimensions of your replacements - if they're the same, you're in luck. If the new windows are thinner than the old (not likely), you can put some shims on the outside stop to make it work. If the new windows are thicker, as they were in my case, you'll need to move the outside stops or make adjustments to the inside trim. My old windows were only 31/4" thick, compared to 31/2" for the replacements, so I elected to fix the inside stops. I bought a cheap table saw, and was able to trim 1/4" from the inside edge of each board. Unfortunately, I also had to cut 1/4" from the window stool (the ledge on the bottom of the window trim). I was able to do this by cutting the nails holding it in place with a Dremel Multi-Max, removing the piece, and trimming it in the table saw. Most people don't have this step.
When your windows arrive, you'll want to remove the plastic wrapping, and store them standing upright (you don't want them laying flat on the floor. Avoid extreme heat for storage. Check all the dimensions carefully - you don't want to find out they're wrong after you've removed the old window! If they're not all the same size, mark each window with it's intended location.
Do yourself a favor, and install your first window in the least noticeable location (I started in a spare bedroom). If you have storm windows, remove screws or other hardware and take them down. You won't use storm windows now. Go inside and carefully remove the window casing (the trim around the window), as well as the inside stops that hold the sashes in place. At this point, you should be able to remove the sashes, and any hardware in the opening. Remember to leave the outside stops in place - they're what the replacement window sits against. Take a stiff putty knife, and scrape the opening to remove loose paint, caulk, etc.
Now is the time to see if you measured properly! Dry fit your window into the opening - set the bottom in place, and tilt it up and back until it rests against the outside stops. You should have a little room on each side (less than 1/4" on each side), and a bit more at the top. Pull the window out and set it aside. There should be a couple of pieces with the window. A channel that sits on the top, that will lift up to fill the space at the top of the window, and a "sill angle", that attaches on the bottom to match up with the existing window sill. Cut some fiberglass insulation, and put it on top of the window, then cover it with the channel. The sill angle usually slips into a slot on the bottom of the window.
Next, you'll need some "window and door caulk", to match your windows. Put a nice bead of caulk around the exterior stop, so your window will seal against it when installed. Also caulk against the stool (that's the ledge that is commonly on the inside) - if you have it. Don't go overboard on the caulk - just a nice even bead - too much just makes a mess.
Fit your window into the opening, and check, with your level, that the bottom is level, it's pushed tight against the outside stops, and that both sides are plumb. Slide the head extender up so it contacts the top of the opening. Install shims top and bottom, check again for plumb and level, and install screws through the installation holes. Don't tighten the screws at this time - they're just holding the window in place. The window should be solidly in the opening, and you can relax for a second.
When you're done relaxing, check to make sure you have shims in all 4 corners, and that the window is level and plumb. Tighten the screws just enough to get them snug, but not enough to distort the window. Add shims where needed - particularly in the center of each side, making sure it's still square and even. Operate the window and make sure it opens and closes properly.
You'll want to fill the empty space between your new window and the old frame. If you've got room, use "Door & Window, Non-Expanding Foam". Don't use the regular expanding foam - it expands too much, and will actually put pressure on the windows, bowing them so they don't operate properly. In any case, don't go overboard on the foam - even the non-expanding stuff will expand enough to fill the void.
If your windows are very tight in the opening (like my first batch were), you may have to fill the void with caulk or fiberglass insulation. I slid a little insulation in the crack with a putty knife, then caulked for a good seal.
Once you've sealed the window, all you have to do is re-install your interior stops and trim. In my case, this was complicated by having to trim 1/4" from each piece, but I didn't have to remove any of the window casing. If you can, use a pneumatic trim nailer - otherwise, you'll need a hammer and nail set. Fill the nail holes with matching putty, caulk outside between the exterior stop and the window, touch up any interior and exterior paint or stain, and you're done!
I read all the articles that said you'd take about an hour per window to swap them out - mine took quite a bit longer. My first window took over 6 hours from start to finish. I went very slowly, since I didn't want to mess something up. The second one took about 4 hours. After that, I would do two at once (since most of them were installed in pairs), in between 4 and 5 hours. One thing that slowed me down was I had to remove and re-install the old blinds and/or curtains - that's never accounted for in the articles. Of course, having to trim the inside stops (which also required re-cutting some miters), slowed me down even more. I also continued to move very slowly, trying to make sure I didn't make a mistake (I still made a few). Without those extra tasks, I'm certain I would have been able to average less than 3 hours per pair of windows, and might have gotten to 2 hours per pair (1 hour per window).
As far as cost, here's how I ended up:
- $2,912 - Windows, with screens (American Craftsman 8500, tan, low E, Argon filled)
- $ 284 - Tools (Table Saw, Dremel Multi-Max, Blades, Wonder Bar, Misc Drill Bits, etc.)
- $ 136 - Supplies (Paint, Caulk, Insulation, Fasteners, etc.)
I'm very glad I did this project myself. I saved a bunch of money, and I believe my finished project was of at least as high a quality as what I would have gotten had I paid for it. I also have a couple of new tools left from the project, too, and I used both of those in my room addition project at my lake home (more about that in the future). If you're not sure if you can do this or not, try one window. At the worst, you'll mess it up and have to pay someone to fix it. I'm guessing you'll find out it's not that tough, and you'll do just fine.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)