How to Install Your Dishwasher

When we moved, we had a lot of work done on the new house - remodeling virtually every room.  We bought all new appliances when we did the kitchen, but we have been very disappointed with our Frigidaire dishwasher.  Although it was supposed to be a quality unit, it didn't work as well as we expected - certainly not as well as the one in our old house.  In addition, it was awkward to load, and the shelf adjustment wasn't handy.  After fighting it for almost 6 months, we decided to cut our losses and get a new one.

The folks at Lowes were very helpful, giving Theresa a good deal on a high-end dishwasher - almost half price.  They delivered it while I was out of town for a couple of days, so I was ready to install it a week ago.

The easiest installation is like mine - when you're replacing an existing dishwasher, you've already got water, a drain line, and power available.  If you didn't have a dishwasher before, you'll need to do some prep work first:

• Determine your desired location.  Most of the time, you'll want to be close to the sink - that makes it easy to hook up your water and sewer lines, as well as making it handy to load dishes.  Often, you'll be able to remove a base cabinet to make room, or you may be able to install the dishwasher at the end of a row of cabinets.  If you don't have room to install a built-in dishwasher, you may want to consider a portable unit, so you can just wheel it in place when you want to use it.  If possible, install the built-in model - you'll like the performance and ease of use.
• Locate the nearest water and sewer lines available, and get connections set up.  In most cases, you can "T" off of your existing water supply line - making sure to add a shut off for the dishwasher.  You drain line will usually go into your disposal, if you have one (don't forget to knock the plug out of the inlet), or into a special inlet on the drain tail piece.  If your dishwasher is going to be more than 6 feet from your drain line, you may need to consult a plumber for installation.

If you don't have a disposal, you'll need this special tail piece with a side inlet - available at any hardware store.

 

• You'll need electrical power to the dishwasher, as well.  You should plan on having a circuit just for the dishwasher - if you don't have one, you'll need to add it (many homes have the dishwasher on a shared circuit, either with kitchen lights or the disposal, and it may work OK, but it's better to do it right and add the circuit).  If you're not comfortable with electrical work, hire an electrician to do it.  If you're pretty handy, a you should be able to handle it.

If, like me, you're just replacing an old dishwasher, you'll already have almost everything you need.  Plan on using a new water supply line (you'll also need a new drain hose, but that probably comes with the dishwasher).  Your power cord, water supply line, and drain hose should be long enough to reach the connections, and have a little slack so you can hook them up before installing the unit.  For most installations, you're ready to go:

• Turn off the power and water to the old dishwasher, and unhook them.  Unhook the drain hose underneath the sink, as well.
• Locate the screws holding the dishwasher into the cabinet (probably in the front of the unit, going into the counter top), and remove them.  Slide the dishwasher out of the way.
• Measure the opening height, and adjust the legs on the bottom of the new dishwasher so that it fits the opening.  You'll be able to adjust a little later, if necessary, but it's a lot easier to get it close now.  If your floor is very uneven, you'll need to fix that before proceeding - a small amount can be corrected with the feet on the bottom of the unit.
• Check your connections to the new dishwasher to make sure you've got everything you need. 
•  Hook up the water supply line, drain line, and electrical power (making absolutely certain that the power is still shut off at the breaker) to the dishwasher.
• Slide the unit partially into place, making sure to route the water and electrical lines as needed. 
• Hook up the water, drain, and electrical connections at the source, if you haven't already done so.
• Finish sliding the dishwasher in place.  Check to make sure it's level and raised up so it fits just under the counter top - adjust the feet on the bottom of the unit as needed.
• Secure the dishwasher to the counter top or cabinets using the included brackets and screws.   Make sure the screws are not too long, or they'll protrude through the counter top!
•  Turn on the water and electrical power, run a cycle, and check for leaks.

So far, our new dishwasher is working fine - it's a big improvement from the old one.  Installing it was pretty easy - the whole thing took about the same amount of time it took me to write this blog post (I'm pretty slow with both working and writing).  Your new dishwasher will come with installation instructions - read them and, if they differ from this post, follow the instructions that came with your machine.  This is an easy do-it-yourself project, well worth tackling yourself.



My WiFi Adventure

A long time ago - we're talking pre-Internet times - if you had a home computer, you probably had a modem in it.  A modem allowed your computer to communicate over phone lines with other computers.  You could, theoretically, transfer files to another modem-equipped computer, after making sure both were online and using complementary protocols.  More often, you could log on to "bulletin boards" and download shareware programs - games, utilities, etc. that you could try first, then pay for. 

Now, of course, virtually every computer is connected to the Internet.  Early on, most computers connected with a modem and phone line.  Later, wired broadband connections were the standard.  Today, your Internet connection is most likely delivered to your home via DSL or Cable, then made available to various devices (computers, printers, tablets, smart phones, video receivers, etc.) over a wireless network.

Modern devices search for wireless access, and automatically connect to known networks, assuming you've got your device set up to do so.  The whole thing works very well, and makes smart phones, tablets, and laptops truly portable.  Wifi networks are readily available - most restaurants have them - so you can be connected almost anywhere.

Most wireless networks are stable and secure.  Networks at public venues may not have security installed, so you may be slightly more susceptible to hackers - do your banking in secure locations.  My problem came with our home network.

We moved a few months ago.  In our old home, our router was located in my office in the basement.  Our main TV was also in the basement, where the Wii was connected - important because we needed the wireless for online gaming or movies using this gaming system.  The only connectivity issue we had was with a net book computer we used in the kitchen - the signal strength was weak, causing slow connection speeds.  Overall, that was a minor issue, since we weren't doing anything important on the small computer anyway.

In our new home, our main TV is on the main floor.  In addition to the Wii, we now have a Roku, with which we watch many old movies on Netflix or Hulu.  We've also both got iPads, so our data needs are increased significantly.  Since our router is located downstairs, in the corner of the basement opposite the living room, the weakest signal in our network was the room where most of our needs were.  As a result, we were experiencing a number of "drops" where we'd lose the network in the middle of whatever we were doing (most often watching a movie or TV show).  Clearly, a change was needed.

My first reaction was to buy a new router.  Our old one was a mid-level router, designed for average users.  I bought a higher end router - still not top-of-the-line, but better - designed for "medium to large homes with higher data needs".  This worked better, but after some time, we began experiencing the same issues as before.  Figuring we just didn't have enough signal strength, I bought a new, higher-end router, and  a range extender.  This would do it for sure, right?

I set up the new, hot shot, dual band, extended range router downstairs, then placed the range extender upstairs in our spare room, directly above the router.  After some fiddling around with the settings, I got connected, and everything looked great.  Then I walked into the living room!  My powerful signal from the bedroom was only marginally better than the downstairs signal, still weaker than what I needed.  I grabbed the extender and moved it out to the living room.  Now, I had it!  I was able to connect to the router, and the signal to my video devices was perfect.  The only issue was that the extender was sitting in the middle of the living room - not coordinating well with Theresa's decorating.

This was an easy problem to solve, right?  I just moved the extender a few feet over so it was sitting by the TV - hidden from casual view like all the other components.  Finally, we were ready to relax and enjoy a movie - and we did, for about 3 minutes.  At that point, the movie stopped to reload, running for a couple of minutes each time before pausing again.  What happened?

It turns out that moving the range extender just a few feet had put it on the edge of our network's range, causing a very slow connection.  It was confusing, because our Roku said the signal strength was "Excellent".  Engaging my brain - something to which I'm unaccustomed - led me to realize that the signal FROM the booster was strong, but the signal TO the booster was marginal.  This was like using a bucket to move a teaspoon of water - it works OK, but you don't really get anything accomplished.

Clearly, a new approach was needed.  I debated the purchase of another new router, this time going for a super high-end unit.  I suspect that would work - after all, many restaurants have a strong signal that will reach even into the parking lot.  After some thought, I decided to just run a network cable up behind the TV, and install a router there.  This wouldn't be difficult, since our basement isn't finished, and it would have the added advantage of allowing for a wired connection to devices, should that prove necessary.

Since I had our old router sitting around doing nothing, I decided to leave the new one in place, and add the old one upstairs.  We'd now have three wireless networks on our system - the original, now relocated upstairs, and two emanating from the dual band router in the basement.  I could have just moved the router up, but, since I've got a computer and printer downstairs, I figured it would be handy to have network access down there.

After the requisite false starts and screw-ups - during which I lost ALL connectivity throughout the house - the system was ready to go.  With relatively little trouble, I was able to connect all the devices upstairs to the network, and give it a try.

So far, everything seems to be working fine.  The wireless network is a bit slower than wired, but it's certainly within acceptable limits.  Watching TV and movies is easy - there are no objectionable delays.  My Wii has an Ethernet connection port, so I may experiment with a hard-wired connection there, to see if there is a big improvement in performance.  The Roku is wireless only, but similar devices are available with Ethernet connections, so if it looks like it's worth it, I can switch that out, as well.

I suspect wireless technology will continue to improve, so that Ethernet cable will be unnecessary in the future.  Indeed, I'm sure we'll one day have universal coverage, so that every device will be connected at all times.  Until then, we'll have to keep patching and improving our home networks to keep up with our ever-growing data needs.

Mike Johanns Responds to Me! (Kind Of)

A month ago or so, I posted about Nebraska's Mike Johanns and his vote against the U.N. Disabilities Treaty.  At the time, his justification for his cowardly vote was his supposed concern for the sovereignty of our country - a flimsy excuse at best.  I also noted that I had sent him a critical email, but didn't expect an apology, or even a response, from him.

I have to admit, I was wrong!  Checking the mail after the first of the year, I noticed a letter, addressed to me, explaining his vote.   I should note, the letter had my name on it, and it addressed my concerns, but it was a form letter.  Apparently, Johanns got enough complaints about his vote that a response was prepared.

In any case, reading the letter was enlightening.  I  now discover that his vote was not his fault - it was Harry Reid's fault!  Wow, Reid is something, isn't he?  He's such a scary character - you can just picture republicans all over the country scaring their kids with, "If you're not good, Harry Reid will get you"!  Johanns now says he voted against the treaty because he told Reid not to bring up any treaties before the end of the session, since there  wouldn't be time to read and study them adequately.  Riiiiight........ I'm certain that's the reason - it couldn't be that you're a cowardly hypocrite who doesn't have the guts to just come out and say you did what you did for purely political reasons.

In reality, the treaty had nothing to do with U.S. sovereignty, and everything to do with a Republican party playing to their base.  Voting against it had nothing to do with Harry Reid, and everything to do with avoiding a primary challenge from the right.  Mike Johanns should save the effort, and quit trying to convince me he's trying to do his job.

Blogsy test

This is a test post using Blogsy, a new blogging tool I'm trying for the iPad. If it works well enough for me to use it, I'll review it in a future post. For now, I'll just try some basic formatting, as well as some other features

You should be able to add links http://garthright.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-powerful-anecdote.html?showComment=1358655038091&m=1, but I don't know how to do it yet.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Jeanne Manford - 1920-2013

Jeanne Manford died last week.  This may not mean much to you, but you could argue that she has had a larger impact on our society in the last 40 years than many more famous and influential figures.  What did she do?  She stood up and  said she loved and supported her child - no big deal, except this was 1972, and her son happened to be gay.  Watch Rachel Maddow's tribute to her in the video clip below:

 

You may not think it takes courage to  publicly support a gay child - and it doesn't, today.  In the 70's, though, things were very different.  Jeanne's support of her son, in spite of what friends, neighbors, or family may have thought, helped to change this country.  While other parents were ignoring or even disowning their children, she stood up and said, "I'm proud of my son".  This attitude has helped fuel the remarkable advance of gay rights during the last couple of decades.  We are where we are today because of people like Jeanne Manford.  Jeanne was a co-founder of PFLAG, an organization that brings together people who have gay or lesbian loved ones.

Jeanne Manford, marching with her son, Morty, in 1972.

We'd all like to think we'd have stood up in support of our children, but, as I said, it was a different time. Unless you were in that situation in that time, you can't really know.  I do know that, because of people like Jeanne Manford, I don't have to face what she did.  Because of her, thousands of families love and support their gay and lesbian members.  I can't imagine a greater legacy.

Jack Reacher - Movie Review

Fans of the Jack Reacher novels were up in arms over the casting of Tom Cruise as the title character in the new movie - an understandable position, since the fictional Reacher is eight to ten inches taller and 80 pounds heavier than the vertically challenged actor.  I've read one of the books, but wasn't familiar enough with the character to have an opinion about it one way or the other.

Cruise's size didn't have an impact on my enjoyment of the movie - he's not a big guy, but he's in shape and pulls off the action sequences very well.  Good camera work - shooting from different angles and avoiding direct height comparisons - helps to keep the audience focused on the action, instead of the physical size of the actors.  In truth, the action is so fast and furious that you don't have time to worry about anything but keeping the story straight.

Jack Reacher is an ex-military cop, a drifter who has gone "off the grid".  He's a tough guy - basically indestructible - and isn't shy about dealing with evil doers.  This is an action flick, and there's not much for humor, but I did laugh when he warned the group of young toughs who intend to rough him up:  Reacher:"OK, but pay your bill first"  Tough Kid:"I'll pay later"  Reacher: "You won't be able to pay later". 

Reacher is involved when a sniper kills 5 people in an apparently senseless spree.  When caught, he tells the arresting detective to get Jack Reacher.  It turns out Reacher has a past with the guy, but they're "not friends".  Reacher reluctantly agrees to investigate the shooting for the accused's lawyer Helen, played by Rosamund Pike.  It wouldn't be much of a story if everything was just as it appears, and Reacher soon learns there's more to the story than meets the eye.

Jack Reacher is a violent character, but the bad guys in this movie would give criminals nightmares.  The baddest of the bad is "The Zec" (Werner Herzog).  The Zec never touches anyone, but he's about the creepiest character you've ever seen. 

Other characters are pretty standard fare - most of them don't last long enough to to be fully developed, but they fit the style of the film.  The plot is interesting, and there's enough of a twist to keep you interested right up until the end - but face it, this isn't a movie to provoke thought.  It's chock full of action, not particularly believable, and a whole lot of fun.  If you're in the mood to see a lot of action, a few interesting characters, and an entertaining story, check out Jack Reacher.  It's certainly worth the cost of the popcorn.