Fix That Toilet!

There are few things in life as irritating as a toilet that leaks, won't flush, or won't shut off when full.  Fortunately, a toilet really isn't rocket science - if you're even slightly handy, you can make your toilet work like new. 

If you find water around the base of the toilet, you probably have a leaking wax seal.  This ring seals the connection between your toilet and the pipe in the floor.  Before you pull the toilet from the floor, feel the water inlet tube, and see if it's wet.  If it is, you have a leak in your inlet, or in the toilet tank.  If that's the case, you may not need to pull the toilet from the floor.  For the purposes of this discussion, let's assume you've got a bad wax ring.

Before you start, make a trip to the hardware store and buy some parts.  You'll need:

• a wax ring - I like the one with the flange on it to help prevent leaks.
• Toilet bolts to hold the toilet to the floor.
• A new water supply line (get the flexible, braided stainless steel type - they're much easier to work with, and less likely to burst).
• A new flush valve assembly.
• A replacement flapper.
• A piece of plastic large enough to sit the toilet on while you're getting it ready to reinstall.

Some or all of these parts may be included in a "toilet repair kit".  If not, the guys at the hardware store can guide you to the correct parts.  With this list of parts, you'll be replacing pretty much the whole insides of your toilet.

 If you have a cleaner in your tank, remove it and run clean water through it until you get rid of all the residue, then shut off the water to the toilet, and hold the flush lever down until all (or most) of the water drains out of the tank. You'll still have a little water in the tank and the toilet bowl.  If you want to avoid a mess, pump the water out of the tank and the bowl (a wet/dry shop vac works good for this, or you can use a small hand pump).  Loosen the connection on both ends of the water supply line, and remove it.

The toilet is attached to the floor by two bolts through the base.  They're usually hidden by a plastic cap the matches the toilet.  Pull the caps off (save them), and turn the nuts counter-clockwise to loosen them.  At this point, you can gently tip the toilet slightly, lift it off the bolts, and set it on the plastic.  Assuming the water is drained from it, you can carefully lay it on its back to gain access to the bottom.

Take a putty knife, and clean off any residue from the old wax ring from the pipe flange in the floor.  The bolts slide into slots in the floor ring, remove and discard them.  When the flange is cleaned up, seal it temporarily with a piece of plastic until you're ready to put the toilet back on (this will keep sewer gas from filling your house).

Go back to the toilet, and clean off the bottom where the wax ring goes.  As long as you've got it removed, go ahead and replace the flush valve and flapper.  The flush valve is the part that controls the water coming into the tank.  Remove the nut on the bottom of the tank where the water supply line comes in, and lift the valve out of the tank.  The new one will install with the gaskets/washer included (some of these are different than others, follow directions in the package).  In any case, snug the nut up firmly, but not so tight that you strip the plastic threads.  The flapper valve either slips over the overflow tube, or attaches to little tabs on the tube, depending on your design.  There are many universal replacement flappers that work with either style.  Clean the seat for the flapper with a bit of steel wool or a clean rag, so it makes a good seal.  Hook the chain from the flapper to the flush handle.

Lay the toilet on its back, and take your wax ring from the box.  Important:  if your bathroom has been tiled, the floor flange may be below the surface of the floor.  If this is the case, you'll need an oversize wax ring, to make a proper seal.  If this is the case, run to the hardware store and get one.  Don't use an oversize ring if you don't need it.

Remove the plastic from the floor pipe, and insert the bolts in the slots with the threads facing up.    Take the wax ring, and place it on the pipe, with the rubber flange inserted into the pipe.  Get a helper, if needed, and pick the toilet up.  Gently set the toilet onto the ring, being careful to go directly down onto the ring,   You may find it easier to put the ring on the toilet, instead of on the floor - either way will work - the important thing is to make sure you get everything lined up properly before you set the toilet down.

With the toilet in place, put your weight on it, and rock it slightly to push the toilet down so it sits flat on the floor.  If it won't get close to the floor, you either have too high a wax ring (only if you've gotten the thicker one from the hardware store), or you're not lined up properly.  Wiggle it a little, and see if it drops down - if it is really solid, you have something not right, and you'll need to try again.

Most of the time, the toilet will be close to flush with the floor, and will go down with a little pressure.  Once you've got it seated, put the washers and nuts on the bolts, and tighten them hand tight.  Important:  you must tighten the bolts evenly, and you can't put too much pressure on them.  If the toilet won't seat completely on the floor, don't try to force it with the bolts (you'll break the toilet).  If necessary, let it sit for a day or so - it will probably seat itself eventually.  If you do this, tighten the bolts a little bit a couple of times a day - you'll probably find that they will be loose when you come back to check them.  Eventually, you want the bolts to be snug (more than hand tight, but not super tight), and the toilet to be sitting completely on the floor.  Install the little plastic caps over the bolts.

When you have this done, connect the new water supply line, and tighten securely.  You're ready to test and adjust the system!

Turn the water on slowly, and watch for leaks.  In particular, check the gasket where the flush control valve is mounted. Adjust the water level so that it is below the overflow tube, and even with the "Fill" line.  Flush the toilet, check for leaks, and adjust the flapper or flush valve as needed. 

If you have a leak at the water supply line or flush control valve, you can usually fix that by tightening the appropriate nut a little.  Don't overdue it!

If the toilet leaks around the base, you've got the wax ring installed incorrectly, and you'll need to pull it apart and start over (with a new ring).  If you're careful when you install it, this is highly unlikely.  When using the ring with the flange, I've NEVER had one leak when I installed it.

All this may seem like a lot of trouble, but it's really a basic do-it-yourself job.  All the parts you buy will have instructions with them, and you'll follow the exact same process if you decide to install a new toilet.  Just relax, take your time, and everything will work just fine.

Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows Review

We liked the previous Sherlock Holmes movie with Robert Downey, Jr, so we thought we'd check out the latest installment in the series, Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows.  If you haven't seen the first movie, Downey's version of the great detective is different than any you've likely seen - or imagined - before.  If you grew up, as I did, watching Basil Rathbone in old black & white movies on late-night TV, you'll have to make an adjustment in your expectations.  This version of Holmes is an action hero - which actually works better than you might expect.

Dr. Watson (Jude Law), is getting married, meaning his crime-solving partnership with Sherlock Holmes is coming to an end.  Never fear, circumstances manage to force his cooperation for at least one final adventure.  This caper features a plot by the nefarious Professor Moriarty (Jared Harris) to ignite a world war.  What follows is an entertaining romp through late 19th century Europe - featuring a bunch of bad guys, a few good ones, and almost non-stop action.  Holmes has the ability to deduce the likely outcome of nearly every situation, so he's pretty tough - but not invincible - in a fight.  Of course, most of the action is cartoonish, so leave your skeptical reasoning at home.  Don't try to make too much sense of the plot or the action, and you'll be fine.

The interaction between Holmes and Watson is great - Law is well-cast as the loyal, not always willing, accomplice to the mayhem.  The rest of the cast is complementary.   Kelly Reilly is fine - but under-utilized - as Mary Watson, new bride.  Stephen Fry is very good as Sherlock's brother, Mycroft - there's a really funny bit with him and Mary Watson.  There is a brief (much too brief) glimpse of Rachael McAdams as Holmes love interest / foil Irene Adler - hard to figure why they'd cast her and get rid of her so early in the action.  Her chemistry with Downey was one of the best things about the first movie.  Instead, we're left with Noomi Rapace as "Sim", the gypsy woman who figures large in the plot.  Rapace is an appealing character, but there's nothing going on between her and Holmes. 

Ultimately, this is a lightweight movie - plenty entertaining if you like this sort of thing (which I do), with clever dialog, humor, and virtually non-stop action.  Definitely worth seeing in the theater with a big tub of popcorn.

What About Home Inspections?

If you've bought or sold a home within the last few years, chances are you've given at least some thought to home inspections.  In my job as a Realtor with HOME Real Estate, I've seen buyers and sellers use the inspection process to their advantage.  I've also seen and heard about many who have not taken advantage of this powerful tool in the home buying process.

Before we go any further, let's define exactly what we're talking about - what kinds of inspections are appropriate for most buyers and sellers?  In almost all instances, the starting point should be a Whole House Inspection.  This inspection will give an overall indication of a home's condition, and will specifically look for issues relating to major systems, as well as health and safety issues.  A thorough whole house inspection will look at the roof, plumbing, electrical system, furnace, air conditioner, foundation, attic, and even appliances. A whole house inspector is a "generalist" - it may be necessary to contact a specialist for specific issues.

In addition to the whole house inspection, you may also want a few more specific inspections:

• Termite inspection (most likely required, if you are financing your home).  
• Mold test (typically performed after some evidence of possible mold is noted on the whole house inspection report)
• Radon test
• Other specific inspections based on concerns raised in the whole house inspection - includes a roof, foundation, furnace and air, etc.

In most cases, I'd suggest a buyer have a whole house, termite, and radon inspection.  Other tests or inspections may be appropriate based on the apparent condition of the home or on the results of other inspections.

It's a no-brainer:  If you're buying a home, get an inspection.  In my opinion, there are very few instances where it makes sense to skip this important step:

• If you are in the building trades, you may be able to spot most potential problems yourself.  Keep in mind,  you may forfeit your right to cancel the contract if you don't have an inspection.
• If you are buying a home that has been pre-inspected by a reputable company, you may be able to rely on that inspection.  You should only do so if the inspection has been performed fairly recently (certainly no more than 6 months), of course.
• If you are buying a distressed home (short sale, foreclosure, etc.).  The sale will be as-is, and you should know enough to be comfortable with the home's condition.  Be prepared to do some repairs.
• If you're buying a home you've lived in for a significant period of time, you may already know about all its faults.

For the rest of us, get an inspection.  Even an inexpensive home is worth a lot of money - don't cost yourself big bucks by trying to save a few hundred dollars.

OK, so you're convinced, right?  So, how do we go about picking an inspector?  First of all, ask your realtor for recomendations.  Hopefully, you've done a good job picking a realtor, and you've found one who is looking out for your interests.  He'll probably be involved in more transactions in a single year than you will be in your entire life, so his opinion should count for something.  The realtor's recomendation is a starting point, but you should still perform your due dillagence - it's time to ask some questions:

• What is the cost of the inspection?
• What exactly is covered?  Is there a separate charge for the furnace and air inspection, termite inspection, or other tests?
• Does the inspection company also perform repairs, or do the specialize in inspections?  It may be OK for an inspection company to offer repair or mediation services, but it could cause a conflict of interest. 
• What training or certification is required of this company's inspectors?
• What additional tests or inspections does the company offer and/or recommend?
• What happens if the inspector makes an error - will the company stand behind it? 

Don't be afraid to ask questions - you're paying for it.  Ask your questions before you meet for the walk through - it's too late to change your mind after the work is done.  Oh, and while we're on the subject - if I had a realtor who objected to my asking questions of the inspection company, I'd start asking myself if I had picked the right realtor!

Most inspectors will check the house out, then go over the report with you.  Don't miss this walk through!  Sometimes the report will have a number of issues identified, but they're minor things that shouldn't be alarming - it can be hard to tell what's a big deal and what isn't without talking to the inspector.  Again, you should feel free to ask any questions during the walk through, and most inspectors will invite you to call them if you have any other questions after reading the whole report.

One caution:  don't get freaked out if you have a long report - every house will have some issues.  Try to identify which are serious, and focus on getting those taken care of.  Don't lose a lot of sleep over minor issues.  Remember, the seller wants to keep the deal together at least as bad as you do, so he should be willing to work with you to get the necessary repairs completed.  If you're reasonable, you'll be fine.

Inspections are nothing to be afraid of.  They are an important tool that will help the buyer and seller successfully complete their transaction.

The Tower Heist Review

We went to see The Tower Heist this past weekend, and I was pleasantly surprised.  I wasn't expecting much (I'm not a Ben Stiller fan), but we wanted to see a movie, and my wife isn't terribly interested in cartoon movies.  We decided to give this a shot.

As I'm sure you're aware, if you've seen the previews, the plot revolves around a group of ordinary guys who attempt to commit robbery to right a wrong.  I won't spoil the plot, but everyone in the theater knows how this one is going to turn out.

The Tower Heist is an "action comedy" - with the emphasis on comedy.  Most of the action is cartoon-style - you're never too worried about someone getting hurt.  I was pleasantly surprised to see they avoided the temptation to go over the top with outlandish characters - Ben Stiller is OK as the wronged loyal employee, and Eddie Murphy is a surprisingly good as "Slide", the local hood who helps the good guys set up the heist.  Tea Leone plays against type as a tough FBI agent (and Stiller's love interest), and Matthew Broderick is well cast as "Mr. Fitzhugh".  Gabourey Sidibe absolutely shines as "Odessa", she's hilarious, mixing a saucy, sexy personality with a little psyco scary girl.  Alan Alda is the ultimate "One Percenter" - you can almost see the slime drip off him as he slithers around looking down on everyone.  The ensemble cast melds together - there's plenty of chemistry here, and that's what makes the movie work.  It's a modest movie, filled with almost-normal characters who get caught up in crazy situations, but it works for me.  It's funny, fast moving, and has enough action to keep you awake, with a couple of scenes that had me in hysterics.

This is not a realistic movie in any sense - you have to suspend your disbelief at the door.  Once you do that, it's easy to get caught up in the caper, and you'll cheer when the bad guy gets what he's got coming.  All-in-all, not a bad flick, and worth the price of admission.

Simple Electrical Repairs

As a long-time do-it-yourselfer, I'm used to working with electricity.  I've been zapped a few times (that's pretty much always a consequence of taking shortcuts, or doing something that you KNOW is unsafe), but nothing too serious, and, if you're reasonably handy, there's no reason you can't do many electrical repairs yourself.

First, a caveat:  In most cases, you are allowed to do your own electrical work, but you still must follow the applicable codes, and you may need a permit.  Contact your local building and safety department for clarification.  If you're not comfortable doing the work, don't do it - saving a few bucks is not worth taking foolish chances.

If you're sufficiently scared, let's look at a few common problems, and how to fix them.  Before you start, you'll need a few tools - Wire Cutters, Wire Stripper, Screwdrivers (Flat Blade and Phillips), long nose pliers, and a voltage tester (for more complex issues, you may need a multi-meter, instead of a voltage tester).

Replacing a light switch (or installing a dimmer), is simple.  Let's assume you're replacing a standard wall switch with an identical one.  Here's what you do:

• Shut off the power at the circuit breaker.  Don't assume the labels on the box are correct - test it first.  Experienced electricians will sometimes work on a "hot" circuit, but you shouldn't.  When you turn off the breaker, lock it out so no one can turn it on (or at least put a note on it, to warn anyone that you're working on it).
• Remove the plate cover, and take out the two screws holding the switch in the box.  There should be enough slack in the wires to allow you to pull the switch away from the wall.
• There will most likely be two black wires hooked up to terminals on the switch - these are the power leads.  One will supply power to the switch, and the other will send power to the light or appliance to be energized.   Depending on your home's wiring, there may or may not be a green or bare ground wire attached to the switch.
• Remove the wires from the old switch.  There are two methods that are typically used to hook the wires up to the switch - they'll either be hooked up with screws, or inserted through holes in the back of the switch and retained with spring clips.  If the latter method us used, it's easiest to just cut the wires flush with the switch body.
• Strip the insulation off the wires, and connect them to the switch.  In most cases, it's best to use the screw terminals - bend the wire in a half circle around the screw in a clockwise direction, and tighten securely.  
• Carefully push the switch back in the box, being careful to avoid loosening the wires.  Tighten the screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the plate cover.  Turn on the power, and test it - you're done!

If you have three wires (not counting the ground wire) hooked up to your switch, it probably means you have a three-way switch.  You'll need to replace it with a new three-way switch, and you should hook it up the same as the old one.  If you replace one three-way, I think it's best to replace the other one at the same time.

Replacing an outlet is almost exactly the same, except you'll need to connect an extra wire.  After shutting off the power and removing the old outlet, look at your wires.  In most cases, there will be three wires hooked up to the outlet - Black, White, and Green (or Bare).  It's Very important to hook these wires up to the right terminals on your new outlet.

• Look at your new outlet - the screws on one side will be silver, and the other side are brass.  The black wire is the "hot" wire, and it should be attached to the brass side.  The white wire is the "neutral" wire, and is hooked up to the silver side.  If you mix up the hot and neutral wires, the outlet will still work, but the polarity will be reversed, and could be dangerous.  If you're not sure which is which, get help to determine which is which.  If you have a third wire (green or bare), it will be attached to the green wire on the outlet.

The other thing that's important is to make sure your wire size is adequate for the outlet.  Wire size is determined by gauge - the smaller the number, the larger the wire.  For a standard, 15 amp circuit (a standard outlet and a 15 amp fuse or circuit breaker), 14 gauge wire is adequate. If you have 12 gauge wire, you can use  20 amp breakers and outlets.  Please note - if you use a 20 amp breaker, you MUST use at least 12 gauge wire and 20 amp outlets.  It's OK to use a smaller breaker and outlets with the larger wire, but not the other way around.

 Replacing a light fixture is not difficult, and it can be a great way to dress up a room.

• Kill the power, and remove the old fixture.  Again, you should have a black (hot) wire and a white (neutral) wire.  You may or may not have a green or bare ground wire.
• Check to make sure the junction box is firmly attached, and able to support the weight of the fixture.  If you're installing a ceiling fan, you must have a metal box that's firmly attached to a ceiling structural beam.
• Strip the wires, and connect the black wire from the new fixture to the black power wire using the proper size wire nut.  The fixture will probably have wire nuts included, or you can pick them up in any hardware store.  They're color coded, and the package will list what size/quantity of wires for which each is designed.  To use the wire nut, just lay the two wires together, and screw it on securely - test it by pulling on the wire.  Repeat for the white wire.  The ground wire, if available, will usually be connected directly to the fixture with a screw terminal.
• The new fixture will have a strap that attaches to the junction box.  Make sure it's securely attached, then attach the fixture to it per the included directions.  Ceiling fans will have specific mounting directions, so you'll need to follow them carefully.
• When you're done, check to make sure you're putting the proper wattage bulb in the fixture, then test it.  Do not exceed the recommended wattage, or you could cause a fire.

Correcting a circuit breaker or fuse that repeatedly trips is a little more complicated.   Unless you're experienced, you may need some help.  You'll want to add a circuit if you find you're blowing fuses or tripping breakers, or if you are adding a room or appliance that needs it's own dedicated electrical supply.

If you blow fuses, you need to check to see how many amps you're using.  For this, you'll need a digital multimeter that has a clamp-on inductive amp meter.  With that, you can measure the amount of current being used (measured in amps).  A standard circuit has a 15 amp breaker.  If you put the meter around the wire leading from the breaker, it will tell you how many amps you're pulling.  Put it on there and check, then go turn everything on that is on that circuit - if you're close to 15 amps, you've got too much, and you should change things up.

If you've just started to blow your breaker, it's possible you have a short,a bad breaker, or a bad appliance that is causing the problem.  To test for this, turn everything off that works on the suspect breaker. Check one thing at a time, and see if something is using more power than it should (everything should have a label showing it's wattage rating).  Volts * Amps = Watts, so something that is rated for 800 watts should use a maximum of around 7 amps (7*115 =805).  Most of the time it will use a shade less that it's rated wattage.  Most likely,  you'll find something that either blows the circuit right away or uses more power than it should.  If you find it, repair or replace it - adding a circuit won't solve the problem.  If you can't find a problem, you probably just have too much on one circuit.

If you're lucky, you'll have an empty spot in your breaker box.  If you do, you can just buy a new breaker (in this example, a 15 amp single pole), and install it in the box.  Breakers are made to fit specific boxes, so you'll have to get exactly the same thing that's in yours.  Most of them just snap into place - if you can't see how it works, ask at the hardware store and they'll tell you.  You can snap in a new breaker without killing the power to the whole box, but it's safest to turn off the main breaker at the top of the box while you're messing around in there.  Even with the main breaker off, there will be power at the terminals where the power line comes into the house.  Use your meter and carefully check for voltage, so you know where it is.

After you put your new breaker in, you'll need to run your wires to it. You'll want to run romex cable all the way from the main panel to your new circuit.  Remember, use at least 14 gauge wire for a 15 amp breaker, 12 gauge for a 20 amp.  In any case, run cable that has a separate ground wire, even if your existing wire doesn't have the ground.  If the area you're running power to is unfinished, or if you have access to an unfinished area below or above it to run the wire, it's pretty easy.  If you have to pull cable across a finished area, you may need professional help.

In any case, run your cable, and hook up your outlets or lighting fixtures as described above.  Every junction should be in a junction box, and any cable run should go inside the wall or ceiling.  Anything run along the surface of a finished wall should be in conduit.  The black wire should always be hot (hooked up to the breaker), and the white wire is neutral.  If you look in your panel, you'll see a buss bar with all the white wires connected.  In most cases (but not all), the ground wire will be hooked to the same bar. 

As I said before, if you're not comfortable working with electricity, get a professional.  If you're not intimidated, however, there are many simple repairs you can safely tackle yourself.  Start off small, shut off the power before you start, and you'll be able to repair most of the issues commonly found in the home.

"He Bites!"

There he was, huddled in the corner of his kennel, tail between his legs, shaking uncontrollably.  He was, I thought, the most thoroughly unatractive dog I had ever seen.  Theresa had seen his picture in the paper before we headed down to Missouri, and asked me to go take a look at him.

Kodak was in a "No Kill" shelter in Osage Beach, Mo.  According to the folks at Dogwood Animal Shelter, he had been there about 6 months.  He had received some kind of abuse in his previous home (one of the shelter workers said they had "bad kids" there).  They told me he wasn't housebroken, and "they told us he bites".  Wonderful!  He was, according to the vet records, a "Husky Mix" - most likely mixed with some labrador.

After seeing him from a distance - and hearing about his issues - I was pretty sure I wasn't interested.  We already had two dogs, and a third would be a major headache, even if the dog was extremely well-behaved.  Bringing home a dog with issues would be impossible.  Since I had gone to look at him at Theresa's request, I figured I might as well take him in  a room and see what he was like.

They brought us in a large, empty room, and left me alone with Kodak.  He immediately went to the extreme opposite corner and sat there, shaking.  I was smart enough not to chase him, so I just sat on the floor with my hand held out.  Every time I looked up, he was a little closer, but would jump away when he saw me move my head.  I turned my head and sat very still with my hand held out.  After about 15 minutes, I felt a cold nose touch my finger.

At that point, Kodak would let me pet him, very gently, under his neck.  Any fast movement on my part sent him packing.  After a few minutes of that, I sat in a chair, sending him back to his corner.  He came back soon, and from that point on, he'd run over to me every time I called him.  He still wouldn't get close to me if I was standing.

I petted him for a while, and we became reasonably friendly (as long as our idea of friendship is to stand at extreme arm's length from one another, with just your fingertips touching his fur).  The kennel worker came back in and I let them take Kodak back to his cage.  I visited for a few minutes with the staff, and decided to leave.  As I was going, one woman said to a middle aged man, "He's thinking of taking Kodak!"  The man looked to be near tears, and said, "Are you really going to take him?"

By that point, I knew I had absolutely no interest in that ugly, terrified dog, but I didn't want to hurt the guy's feelings.  I said something like, "I have to talk to my wife", and got out of there.

When I got back to our place, Theresa asked what I thought.  I told her, very definitely, that he was too much of a project for us to tackle.  We already had two dogs - Charlie was old and lame, and Cassie was still a handful at times.  The only way a third dog would make any sense at all is if he was already trained and had no bad habits.  We didn't need to take a dog that might bite, wasn't housebroken, and had who-knows how many other bad habits.  She agreed.

Unfortunately, I have a soft spot in my heart (head?) for strays.  I kept telling myself we were better off without that dog, but I couldn't get him out of my mind.  I also couldn't forget the reaction by a couple of the staff members at the shelter - why were they so excited for Kodak to find a home?  I went all day, getting more and more bugged about it.  My wife - who is usually smarter than me - really did not want to go look at him.  Finally, I told her it was going to drive me crazy until I took her over to see the dog.  I was really hoping she'd just put her foot down and say no, but she didn't.

We drove over to check out Kodak.  When you walk in the front door at this place, you're up to your elbows in dogs - 30 or so dogs are just running around in the lobby.  They're jumping on you, playing with each other, and generally looking very adorable.  There were several in the lobby that were much more appealing than Kodak (he didn't ever get to come up there, since he was so afraid).

Theresa and I went to the meeting room, and they brought Kodak in.  I was surprised that he "kind of" remembered me - it only took him a minute or so to come to me when I sat on the floor.  Even more of a surprise, he went to Theresa much quicker than he had to me - it only took him a few minutes to go over to her.  He was very sweet - he really liked her to pet him.  When she'd stop, he'd nudge her hand with his nose to get her to pay attention to him again.  Of course we decided, regardless of what made sense, that we'd adopt him.

After we filled out the paperwork and paid the fee, we took him to the car.  Here came my first concern - he wouldn't jump up, so I had to lift this strange, biting dog up into the car.  I was a little surprised when he let me lift him up - as afraid as he was, there was no sign of biting or growling.

We were a half mile down the road when we discovered the next problem - he smelled bad!  Every dog I've adopted from a shelter has been really stinky, and he was no exception.  We decided to stop at Petco to see if they could bath home before we took him home.  They were able to get him in, so we left him there and went to get a bite to eat.

When we came back, we were pleased to find out that Kodak had been good for grooming - no biting or acting up.  He was pretty scared, but that was it.  We bought him a leash and a collar, and headed home.  He seemed to enjoy the ride, and let Theresa pet him as we drove.

Kodak, on the ride home the day we adopted him.

My next concern was introducing him to the other dogs.  Charlie wasn't a problem - she knew how to act around other dogs - my only concern was protecting her from a potentially aggressive dog.  Cassie, on the other hand, can be touchy with strange dogs.  I've found the best way to introduce her to a dog is to let her see Theresa or I interact with the dog, then to walk the two dogs, letting them get progressively closer.  Once she's used the a strange dog, she's fine.

To my surprise, Cassie's response to Kodak was muted.  After a couple of minutes, I was able to take both of them for a walk without incident.  Five minutes after that, Kodak was in the house, sitting between my two black dogs, waiting for a treat!

Cassie (L), Kodak (C), and Charlie - Minutes after coming in the house for the first time.

My two most serious questions about Kodak - did he bite, and would he get along with my other dogs - had been answered more positively than I could have hoped!  Charlie was, as expected, fine.  Cassie and Kodak took a great shine to each other - there was no issue whatsoever between them.

I still had the housebreaking concern, but I was confident that I could get that done with minimal effort.  Towards that end, I kept Kodak on the leash in the house at all times.  If I couldn't watch him, he'd go to his kennel.  Of course, being at our lake home was a bonus, since I had time to work with him.  Much to my astonishment, he never had a single accident in the home.  It probably helped that he has a bladder the size of a basketball - he can hold it forever!  It took him a little time to understand he had to go as soon as you took him outside, but he understood immediately that he wasn't allowed to go in the house.  It looked like our "problem" dog was going to be OK.

Kodak adjusted quickly to living in our home.  It took him a couple of days before he'd eat (but then he quickly made up for it), and he soon quit running from Theresa and I.  Initially, he followed me around wherever I went - probably because I fed him - but eventually became extremely attached to Theresa.  Now, after almost 2 years, he follows her around and sits in her lap or beside her most of the time.

He's still really afraid of strangers, although he's much better now than when we first got him.  He'll bark at guests when they first arrive, then sneak up and try to get petted once they sit down.  When we have overnight guests, he'll make friends with people, only to forget them by morning (we joke that he has short-term memory loss, like Drew Barrymore in 50 First Dates).  Sometimes he'll bark at Theresa or I, if he's not expecting us.

Kodak has very few bad habits.  He likes to play with toys or balls, but throws up when he does, so those are definitely outside activities.  He likes to chase squirrels, and he'll chase our cat if she comes out of her room in front of him.  He howls when you're fixing his dinner, and eats his food very fast.  We've had to work with him to get him to take treats nicely.  Kodak took basic obedience, and did OK, but he's a little nervous about being in the strange place with strange people and dogs.  He's pretty good with strange dogs, but gets wound up if Cassie does.

Kodak has a curly tail - the happier and more excited he is, the more it curls.  A few months after we got him, we took him to a farmer's market down in Missouri.  He was afraid, but did OK.  When we stopped at one booth, a woman said, "Oh my God, is that Kodak?"  It turns out she worked at the shelter, and remembered him from when he was there.  We decided to take him over to the shelter to show him off.  At the shelter, they were amazed - they said they'd never seen Kodak with his tail up!  He was afraid of most of the staff, until they called the woman from the back who had taken care of him - he was very excited to see her, and went right over to her.


As I've said before, Cassie can be touchy around other dogs, but she and Kodak are great buddies - they never snap or even growl at each other (Kodak is the only dog that can get away with stepping on Cassie while she's sleeping).  If you take only one dog, the other is very upset while you're gone. 

Kodak is very easy to take care of.  He's kennel trained, but we almost never lock him up anymore.  We used to leave the dogs in the office downstairs when we left, but lately we've just left them out.  Kodak doesn't mess up the house, chew, or cause any problems when left alone (or with Cassie).  He's quite a watchdog - especially when the doorbell rings on TV!  Far from being a biter, it's almost impossible to imagine him biting someone.  He keeps himself very clean, and loves to be petted and fussed over.  When you get tired of petting him, just say, "Go lay down" and he'll go to his spot and lie down.

Cassie and Kodak Today

The Top 10 Christmas Shows of All Time

As I was sitting there watching another made-for-TV Christmas movie, I thought, "Instead of wasting my time with this trash, I should watch one of the Christmas movies I really like".  Of course, that would have taken a little bit of effort on my part, so I sat there and watched the bad one anyway.  After it was over, I thought about all the great Christmas movies I've seen, and decided to try to put them in order.  For the purposes of this list, I'll lump movies, TV Specials, and TV movies together.  Keep in mind, this is my list - subject to my goofy opinion.  I like sappy, sentimental shows, but I also like goofball comedies.  Sometimes I even like action or suspense, but I usually don't like sadistic violence (fortunately, that's not a staple of Christmas movies).

For the purposes of this list, a "Christmas Show" will be defined as any movie in which the Christmas holiday plays a central part of the plot.  Shows like "Die Hard", although set during the holidays, are not Christmas movies, so they don't make my list.  I love Die Hard, but it's not what we're talking about here.  Likewise for "While You Were Sleeping", which would certainly make my list as one of the top romantic comedies. 

I've had to actually watch a show for it to be on my list, so a movie like "Bad Santa", which I'm sure I'd love, won't be on it.  I plan to watch that at some point, so it may be on a future list.  Some of the movies I've not seen for years - a few of them I watched DECADES ago - so my rating is based on my opinion from whenever I last watched it.  This means that "A Christmas Story", which I thought was cute when I first saw it, loses out due to overexposure.  I also resist having it on my list because everyone talks about how much they love it.  I don't get it - it's OK, but certainly can't compete with my favorites.

With no further ado, here is my list:

10.  The Family Stone.  A sentimental favorite, this movie reminds me of my own family - nothing is as perfect as you'd like it to be, but it ends up working.  The plot revolves around the family gathering at Christmas, with one son bringing his new, uptight fiance along.  No magic, nothing miraculous, but it's funny and touching.

9.   Home Alone.  OK, I warned you.  I like goofball comedies!  This is pretty goofy, and silly.  It's also really funny.  Just don't think about what happened to Macaulay Culkin, and you'll enjoy it more.


8.   The Muppet Christmas Carol.  Instead of going to the new Muppet Movie, save a few bucks and pick up a copy of this instead.  It's a fun version of the Dickens' story, with Kermit and all the gang.  There are two movies based on this story on my list - see if you can guess the other one!


7.   Holiday Inn.  The first of two movies on my list that feature the song "White Christmas".  I always get this and "White Christmas" mixed up, but this is the one with Fred Astaire joining Bing.


6.   White Christmas.  The second of the two Bing Crosby movies featuring the song "White Christmas".  This one has Danny Kaye, which makes it just a little better than Holiday Inn.

 OK, we're halfway there.  The top 5 are really much better, in my opinion.  I had a lot of trouble separating numbers 6-10 from the also-runs.  No such trouble here - these 5 are clearly my favorites (at least as of this moment).


My 5 favorite Christmas shows:


5.  How the Grinch Stole Christmas.  I'm NOT talking about the horrible Jim Carey movie here - I'm talking about the 1966 TV special.  This show is the reason this post isn't titled "The Top 10 Christmas Movies of all Time".  The only TV special in my top ten, it's worth a look.  I've watched this show multiple times since I was a child, and I still enjoy it.  The look on the dog's face during the Grinch's trip down the hill is priceless.  The bad Carey movie just stretched a 30 minute TV show into a 90 minute movie by adding 60 minutes of Carey's obnoxious strutting for the cameras.


4.  Scrooged.  The second of the "Christmas Carol" adaptations, this one is my favorite.  Goofy, funny - it's a lot of fun.


3.  National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation.  This is my favorite of the National Lampoon Vacation movies, and it's great fun.  Chevy Chase has made a bunch of bad movies, but this one's a classic.  Lots of crazy characters.


2.  It's a Wonderful Life.  No list of favorite Christmas Movies would be complete without Jimmy Stewart and Mr. Potter.  Sappy, yes, but I defy you to watch this to the end without fighting to hold back the tears.  "To my brother George, the richest man in town!"  I just got goosebumps writing it out.


And, last - but certainly not least - my all-time favorite Christmas show:


1.  Miracle on 34th Street.  Natalie Wood is Adorable.  Edmund Gwenn is lovable.  Maureen O'Hara is magnificent.  I watch this several times over the holiday season - often catching parts of it on TV.  It always catches my attention and entertains.  Some of the remakes are OK, but do yourself a favor and watch the original - it's a treat.


There you have it - my list.  For the cost of  taking your family to a single movie, plus snacks, you can buy all of the top 5 and be entertained for years to come.  I'm sure as soon as I post this, I'll remember another favorite.  Feel free to chime in and let me know where you disagree.